Nissan Maxima Car Answers
IT DOESN'T HAPPEN OFTEN BUT IT'S HAPPENED AT THE WORST TIMES : EXPRESSWAY, INTERSECTION, ETC. I'VE TAKEN IT TO MECHANICS BUT, THEY CANNOT DUPLICATE THE STL, SO THEY DON'T HAVE MUCH OF A CLUE AS TO WHAT'S CAUSING THE PROBLEM. THEY'VE DIAGNOSED SEVER AREAS, BUT THE ENGINE RUNS TIP-TOP, EXCEPT FOR THIS RARE OCCURANCE, WHICH WILL RESTART WITH NO PROBLEM. IT MY SON'S TRANSPORTATION, BUT I WON'T LET HIM DRIVE WITH THIS PROBLEM.
PLEASE HELP ME!
JIM VAN PELTwhen i put the transmission in D 1 or 2 it stalls but in P or N it runs fineI have a 95 Nissan Maxima GXE... When I start accelerating from 0.. it does not shift from first to second gear until i take my foot off accelerator. But when it shifts to second gear it runs smooth, but then when I drive it on highways, I noticed a huge difference in rpm. It touches 4000rpm on 75-80 when it used to be under 3000rpm in past. When I take my foot off accelerator, rpm goes down to around 1500 rpm. And then when i try to re-accelerate the car, first rpm goes till atleast 3000 before car start to get an acceleration. I know there is sumthing wrong but can't figure it out. please help me and let me know how to fix itMy Maxima stalls when I first start it in the morning when it is cold. It starts fine, but then the RPMs drop and it stalls. I have to then re-start the car and depress the accelerator to keep the RPMs up for a second or two. This is preventing me from using my remote start.Driving along just fine then car stalls like Tranny went into neutral. Now makes a whiring noise and will not move. Plenty of fluid. Was rebuilt with heavy duty parts about 40k ago. Any clues? If needing rebuilt, I need a chep, chep price.
931-409-7201My son just bought a 94 Max. Going to work last night his clutch pedal went all the way to the floor and stayed there. We opened the hood and checked the fluid small cylinder that looks like a baby master cylinder. It was almost empty. We filled it with DOT 3 per the owners manuel but can't get pressure back to the pedal. Is it air in the line? If so do you bleed it like brakes? and if so were is the bleed valve. ClayMy power windows, locks, seatbelts, seats, and all electrical functions on driver side door controls (Windows, Locks, Trunk). All fuses are working, both front and under hood fuses. There seems to be a wiring problem. My mecchanic said a wire probably blew out, we managed to get my windows up by connecting the top 20 fuse witht he 10 fuse on the right side. Does anyone know how much it would cost/if i could do it myself.I replaced the radiator and the thermostat, but the engine still overheats...when i turn on the heat to dissapate the overheating, it works briefly before overheating again..what could cause this problem?
I make sure there is plenty coolant in the system.
can someone give me some ideas as to what the problem is?The following happens intermittently: After my Maxima is driven, then allowed to sit for awhile (without completely cooling), it
turns over but does not start. Or it may briefly start, then stalls (it acts as if it's either flooded or not getting gas or spark). The only way it eventually starts is by fully depressing the accellerator (white smoke is visible for awhile). Recently, the car stalled while driving with the same hard-starting symptoms.i my car recently is starting to have problems starting. i will start my after it has sit for a couple of hours it will start up and idle weird for a second then after its warm it will run fine. But when i turn it off and try to start it again it won't turnover. i can hear the starter turning but it just won't fire. I will have to let it sit again for another couple of hours before it will be able to start again. Could this be a problem with the starter or the fuel injectors or fuel pump?my engine makes a roar at about 1000 rpms. new w.p., tensioner, belt, still have the same noise before all installed.engine runs good just makes roaring noise more in park and neutral. 193000 milesI was told by the mgr. at Midas today that I have a problem with the front rotors and the back brakes pads. They are hopeful the rotors can be resurfaced within standards.
He said the front pads seem to have been replaced fairly recently, but the back pads are in poor condition. I bought the car at 60, 000 miles and it now has about 68, 000. So, I do not know. I was told the back brake pads were at 1/32 and 2/32, which they said means they need to be replaced.
I am okay with resurfacing the front rotors and replacing the back brake pads. But, do I necessarily need new pads when I resurface the front rotors? And, do I necessarily need to resurface the back rotors just because I am replacing the back brakes. And finally, is brake cleaning $4.99 necessary?
Brake Pad 65.99 + 40 labor
Brake Pad (opposite) 49.99 + 40 labor
Resurface front rotors 15 ea. side or $30
Resurface rear rotors 15 ea. side or $30
Brake clean 4.99
Seem reasonable in Southeast Louisiana?When accelerating at partial throttle at speeds of 55 to 75 mph a vibration is felt thru the steering wheel and passenger compartment. This happens when the car is in overdrive and seems to be related to a transmission problem(eg ;trying to make up its mind to be in overdrive or another gear). vibration goes away as transmission drops to a lower gear and engine speeds up.No high beam on right front. Bulb unit replaced, same thing. Switched sides, interchanging bulb units, still no high beam right side. Resistance checked, just no voltage coming through plug when on high beam.Relay? But where is the location? Relay box in engine compartment labled cornering lamp, but there is no relay there. The kicker is, never has been one there, and high beams worked until it started to occasionaly fail. Now nothing. No other electrical problems at all.
Great Site! ThanksI smell gas fumes VERY strong inside car in cold weather when warming up. Car stalls for a split second when driving at highway speeds.Took by mechanic and of course fumes would not show up for him. Wife is Afraid car may "Blow up" but mechanic could find not gas leaks.
HELP. 170K miles on car with 40K miles Rebuilt Automatic Tran. Tranny just went out yesterday, do not think this is related even though mechanic thought maybe I was smelling Trans. fluid fumes instead since he claim Tranny fluid WAS leaking out. I believe I know the differnece between Gas fumes and Transmission fluid fumes (Hope I do at least, I have intalled a few motors and Transmissions in my lifetime). I had a truck burn to the ground when I was a teenager from leaking fuel line.The car idles fine.In park and in neutral it reves up smoothly.However out on the road it sputters like crazy when accelerating.When road speed is finally reached it smooths back out.I have replaced the fuel filter, the distributor cap and rotor button.The plugs look fine.I checked the resistance on the coil and got a reading of 1.4 ohms on the primary and 8.75k ohms on the secondary. The spec call for 1.0 ohms on the primary and 10k ohms on the secondary.Should I replace the coil based on these readings? What should I check next?When driving, there is a knocking/grinding coming from the suspension/under carriage like something
is loose or slipping and when making full turns you
hear a slight crunch.my car has a security alarm/anti-theft system installed in truck.how does this affect the starting functions and/or is there a way to bypass this?Code 13- Cylinder head temperature sensor. The Haynes repair manual (Chapter 4, Fuel and exhaust system) states "sensor is located on the cylinder head near the thermostat housing". The illustration shows a 1988 model and refer to the timing belt removal and installation procedure. I removed the coolant reservoir, the A/C idler pulley and bracket, the timing belt upper cover..to find nothing. Question : Where is the CHTS located ?Speedometer stopped working a few weeks ago. Purchased a new speed sending unit and want to change it out. I have removed the air intake parts and can't find it. Where is this thing? I've tried to follow different wires but none of them go to a part that looks like what I have. There is a place in the back of the tranny where it looks like it could and should go but there is a factory cover over the hole and no wires around the area. Please share your knowledge.Makes a clicking noise when turning key (rat-a-tat-tat), no response from engine. Noise does not sound like typical starter cranking. "Service Engine Soon" light comes on. Last 3 times in the last month, depressed gas pedal to floor (reluctantly for fear of flooding engine) and car started. This time did not work. Friend suggested Ignition Coil went bad.
Suggestion for remedy and information on replacing part. I have worked on cars.On the same day, both back power windows failed. One window was rolled down and then wouldn't come back up. The other slipped down when the door was pushed closed and wouldn't come back up. I don't believe both motors would fail at precisely the same time. I checked the fuses. Front windows work fine.'96 Maxima GLE no spoiler
Alarm (beeping, flashing headlights) goes off for no reason, whether it's armed or not. (At 4 a.m., my neighbors must hate me). I tried removing battery from keyless remote, it still happens, so it's not a short there.
My mechanic states trunk switch is fine, wires at hinge are fine, tho' the car was mildly rear-ended 2 years ago & has a new trunk lid. Help!and the abs-sensor light stays on and the brake lights do not come on. the brake light bulbs and fuse are good. what is the problem? is the fix expensive? please help. and i just had the rear brakes done. the abs-sensor light was still coming on before and after the rear brake job. also is the
cv shaft (cv joint, ujoint housing) the same as the axle? and how many axles do the 91 max have to replace?Bought 99 Nissan Maxima SE w/84, 000 miles... ran great. Turned 100k last week and the next day (literally) the car suddenly began to idle roughly ( I noticed immediately ). The day after that it started sputtering especially when accelerating... the "service engine soon" light came on and began to blink. I looked it up in the owner's manual and the flashing light means that the engine is mis-firing. Replaced Bosch plat. spark plugs with new Bosch platinums. No improvment. Took it to a Nissan dealer, they diagnosed it and said that 2 coils were bad... so i bought the parts from the dealer, the mechanic showed me which two coils needed to be replaced, and later that day I installed the new ones in about 10 mins. The car ran perfect at that moment... better than it had when i bought it. Felt like it had more torque down low in the powerband, and made shifts smoother and easier ( 5 spd ).
Three days later the car started to sputter again... not as bad as before but seems to be getting worse... especially down low in the powerband. Pretty much smooths out past 3k rpm. The next day (today) the "service engine soon" light came on again... but so far hasn't blinked on and off like it did before. Still sputtering and feels like it's mis-firing, especially during acceleration. I feel like the coils going bad was probably the result of something "higher up" in the system malfunctioning... And now it's happening again.
Imagine that. The Nissan dealer has mis-diagnosed the problem. HELP!!!!!!!When trying to start and pushing in the clutch, sometimes the enginge doesn't crank at all. After trying it several times it eventually cranks and starts fine. Just had a new starter put in last week and the same problems are reocurring. It seems as if the clutch has to be pushed as hard as possible to the floor board for it to work and then after a few attempts. Please help.
Took it back to the mechanic and he said something about the fly wheel may be rounded off and would cost over $1000 to replace. I don't think so.the multi-remote control system stopped working, changed batteries in both remotes, still nothing. I checked for a possible bad fuse, nothing. Is this something I can fix, without taking it in to a shop??Left/Right Turn signal and emergency flahsers stopped working!... all other electrical system work fine... checked fuses under hood and dashboard... your thoughts?... thomasWhen the brake pedal is not depressed, the instrument panel lights do not work (whether the headlights are switched on or off). When the brake pedal is depressed, the instrument panel lights come on (again, headlights off or on - this happens even when the headlights are off and the clock light dims as if it were night and the headlights are on).
Also, when the headlights are switched on, the brake lights do not work (no light at all), but when the pedal is depressed they do work (the brightness and the 3rd light come on).Hi, I just had the transmission rebuilt on my 90 Maxima SE. A week later it started stalling out on a cold shift. If the RPMs weren't below 1000 it would shut down shifting out of park. If I did manage to get it started and the engine wasn't wram enough, the first gear shift would bang and when braking the car would shudder almost or to the point of shutdown. I took it back to the rebuilder and they said it was not a trans problem. they found crack in two of my vaccum hoses, fixed that and the problem disappeared for a week. Since the rebuilder said it wasn't the trans I took it to a nissan dealer who also didn't believe that it was a trans problem. After having the 60K maintenance done at the dealer they found nothing wrong. However when checking for the cold start problem the found my ignition wires sparking. The replaced the ignition wires and the distributor cap. That fixed it for a week. The problem has resurfaced, but now the car has to be really cold to stall. In the midst of that, the car seems to be degrading on everything that has to do with the transmission. The shift lock (which I have never used during the 3 years that I have owned the car) is locking as soon as you shift to park L BY ITSELF. When I took it back to the dealer to tell them that the distributor cap, ignitions wires and now this shift locking, they are now admitting that it is a transmission problem. After that, now the car gets stuck in remote start. I remote start it, and without the key in the ignition I hit the brake. The car is supposed to shut off, but it doesn't. If I put the key in, turn it, put my foot on thebrake and switch gears it shuts down, but the second I put the car into park and take my foot off the brake the car restarts by itself. I have to use the remote to turn the car off and start it with the key to get anywhere (Of course after it warms up). I've been going through this process for over a month now back and forth and the old broke transmission never did this and I have never experienced it before. is this truely an trans problem or could it be somethign else?Had the 89 Maxima SE for a month. Has always started right up every time until I took to the store and came back 15 min later and it cranked but didn't start. Was stranded, came back next morning, started on first crank. Took it in to shop, they tested things out found no problem. It happened to them once when it was cold so they tested battery, starter but unable to pinpoint problem. It turns over good, just doesn't ignite. Sometimes a light in the dash to rhs of speedo fades off and on. Dash needs tap ocassionally when temp gauge drops to cold or hot when engine is warm but not sure if they are related. Compression test is good, running premium fuel. It idles at 1500rpm as opposed to 1, 000rpm before problem. Runs great when it starts 98% of the time but don't want to get stranded again. Thanks.My 95 maxima has been a great car for me until just a few days ago.When I accelerate lightly from a stop, the 1-2 shift is delayed slightly, and is very hard when it occurs.When I accelerate at a moderate to heavy throttle pressure, perfect shifts occur, all the way up.When the tranny goes into overdrive, and then full converter lock-up, I back off on the throttle to maintain a set speed of 65MPH, the tranny seems to loose the overdrive gear, or lock-up, the engine goes up aprox 800rpm, and then the tranny seems to hunt around for the correct gear and lock-up pattern again.This cycle goes on and on if I maintain or slightly decrease throttle pressure.If I keep increasing throttle pressure, every works perfect, accept I can only accelerate for so long.Where would you start on this one?The tranny was fully serviced at 65000 miles, and currently has 110000 miles on it.Any direction and or help would be greatly appreciated.With Todd.Hi, upon applying the brake to SLOW down for a red light and it immediately turning green, I then apply my foot to the gas pedal. While still moving the car hesitates to accelerate for a few moments, then I feel a mild jerk as the car felt like it found the gear. Took it to the dealer a countless amount of times, diagnostics report no tranny errors/codes, and I don't have a check engine light on. Also, I test drove another Maxima similar to mine to try to diagnose the problem.
The test upon coming to a dead stop on a dry road: I stomped the gas pedal of my Maxima, the car lazily began to accelerate. Did the same thing to the other Maxima, car almost burned a hole into the ground. Healthy Maxima had 48, 900 miles. Both cars have 190 HP motor, 4-speed automatic transmission, and both cars are factory stock.
Ignition coils and spark plugs have been changed and are now brand new, but the car still has weak performance. Car only has 32, 770 miles, but has been hesitating ever since I bought it from the dealer with 28, 096 miles only 6 months ago. Changed transmission fluid before 30, 000 miles, fluid had no burnt odor, color, or metal fibers in it. I have only been using BP/Amoco 93 octane gas since I bought the car. Changed fuel filter, flushed radiator, and changed the air filter. I do oil changes religiously every 3 months or 3, 000 miles, whichever comes first.
What could be causing my 1998 Maxima GLE to perform so lazy and poor? Please help. Thank you.I have replaced the ignition module, ignition coil, computer box and even cable from the ignition coil to the distributor. There is still no spark and the car still doesn't start. It turns over but won't start. I had the car towed to a mechanic. He said I need a new distributor and that will cost $242 rebuilt. He said the problem is that there is no pulse or power to the injectors. Does this sound accurate or is the problem something else?my girlfriend wants to replace her battery which is at least 5 years old. she was told replacing it could screw-up the computer. any particular precautions that should be taken if i was to replace the battery for her? thank you1. engine starts perfectly.
2. engine runs smoothly (no missing)
3. if temp is warm it runs for few seconds.
4. if temp is cold it runs for one minute.
5. use of accelerator will kill engine.
6. coolant level warning light stays on (level fine)
fuel pump is fine
fuel pressure regulator fine
fuel filter is newA couple of times now, the Brake light and the Battery light have come on momentarily, then gone out. Alternator is about 6 months old, battery is new. Checked voltage at battery with engine running, and got about 14 V (but lights were out by then).
Any ideas? Don't want the wife to get stuck...
ThanksCode 13- Cylinder head temperature sensor. The Haynes repair manual (Chapter 4, Fuel and exhaust system) states "sensor is located on the cylinder head near the thermostat housing". The illustration shows a 1988 model and refer to the timing belt removal and installation procedure. I removed the coolant reservoir, the A/C idler pulley and bracket, the timing belt upper cover..to find nothing. Question : Where is the CHTS located ?I recently had my front brakes replaced in my car. After this happened I now have a grinding noise like there is no pad on the rotor, but they are new. I have had a couple different mechanics look at the car and they say the brakes are fine. One mechanic thinks that it may be the differential in my transmission. Is this possible? Or is there a half axle with gears that may be grinding? The noise is coming from the drivers side front tire. Any ideas on what this may be I'm getting sick of fixing parts that don't need to be fixed, because it's not fixing the problem. I also fixed the cv axel on the passenger side. This noise happens when I am slowing down around 15mph to 0mph and only when I'm almost stopped.I was hoping someone could give me a suggestion as what to do for a 1995 Nissan Maxima Gle 6 cyl, 24 valve that seems to stall out.
I had changed the fuel filter, injector cleaner and air filter
It idles fine, starts fine but when it is in drive and the peddle is pressed it stalls out
Especially when on a hill where stress is on the engine.1998 Nissan Maxima GLE. After engine is warm, while driving at a high rate of speed (55mph+), I just began noticing a high-pitched noise coming from the engine that is directly correlated to the amount of pressure being applied to the accelerator. When accelerating, the noise gets louder. When you take your foot off the gas and coast, it goes away. This only happens when driving 55mph+ and after the engine is warm.
It almost sounds like a motor of some kind is running just in front of the steering wheel. The weirdest part is it will make a noise for a few minutes, and then stop, and then come back within about a minute. Very odd.
I took it to a guy here in town and he thought it was a wheel bearing. Nope, replaced the bearing and still making noise. He said he subscribes to this bulletin service and one he ran across that sounded like this problem was AT99-003. Don't know if that means anything to you. Another thing this guy mentioned was a clutch pack.
I would greatly appreciate your thoughts/comments on this. Thank you.MIL is on. Dignostic Test indicated Mass Air Flow Sensor malfunction. I replaced it and the Igniter (used ones). But still hesitates a bit. I also like to know how to reset the MIL.
JK.Car has 225K on it and never a problem. Drove 200 miles on freeway. Sat in driveway for two days in 45 degree temperature. Could not start. Battery is new and powerful. Cranks hard and strong. Smell of fuel if you pump accelerator. Seems to have no spark at all. Has new plugs. Just before parking for two days, filled up with gas and noticed when I started the car that the battery light flickered for 30 seconds or so and then went out. Had never seen that light come on before.The problem on a 3.0L engine 1998 Nissan Maxima GLE: The automatic transmission will not downshift to its lowest gear unless the car comes to a complete stop. If the driver slows down to a near stop (1mph) then tries to accelerate quickly, the car tries to move forward in 3rd gear unless the gas pedal is pushed to the floor. Once the pedal is depressed completely, the car revs and slams into the lower gear.
I bought this car with only 28, 096 miles from a certified Nissan dealer. I changed the transmission fluid twice and long before 30, 000 miles.
Other things done to the car with no results:
Changed all six ignition coils & spark plugs
Changed knock sensor (actually had some result, car became more responsive and the shift delay got shorter but soon returned)
Changed VSS on top of the transmission
The ECU was reset by computer and by small silver screw on the side of the unit
Flushed out tranny fluid twice and changed the metal screen filter that was totally clean with no big metal shavings but did have normal tiny wear and tear metal shavings on the magnets of the transmission oil pan--which was also cleaned and put back with a replaced gasket
Adjusted throttle cable for any slack
Took the car to Nissan a countless amount of times where they used the realtime CONSULT-II Program and found nothing wrong. They then took it for a one hour and a half test drive and found everything functioning correctly.
Car has no service engine soon light on, so I guess the onboard computer isn't detecting any major problems.
What could be causing my car's late delayed shifting before a complete stop? After the ECU reset the car is now idling at 500 RPM when it is stopped in drive or reverse, and the steering wheel shakes a bit. That was something it didn't do before. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated, thank you.95 maxima is overheating not to the point where somke is coming out of the engine i don't drive it that far. Also the heater is not producing heat. It just blows cold air. I put coolant in and after a few days the problem still exsist. the coolant is low after just about a week. The heatr does not wotk at all. WHAT SHOLD I DO?started with a bad hesitation, then seemed that it would die out if you pressed gas quickly, but would pick up jerkily, if gas was pressed slowly(for about 3 weeks), next this stopped and it would accelerate fine, but would cut off about every 45 seconds to a minute, won't usually start on first turn of key, but always on second turn, runs fine for about a minute then dies. No aftermarket alarm, replaced fuel filter, and throttle position sensorTurn signals stopped working- Both emergency flashers and right and left directionals. At first I would just get a flash or two before it quit, now it never works. Bought a replacement at an auto parts store (I get the feeling they weren't sure so they gave me a generic) and I can't find where to plug it in. Called dealer for the location and the lead mechanic said to "bring it in. We need to look at it in the shop". What's up with this? Does a '99 Maxima need to go in the shop for a blinker relay? If not where does one find it?
P. Brown2000 Maxima, at full throttle the engine bogs like not enough fuel, or throttle position sensor not knowing it is at full throttle.The check engine light has been on. Computer Diagnostics indicated that the shift solenoid is faulty and the knock sensor is faulty...I had both replaced, after 80 miles the check engine light came on again, it asked for the shift solenoid again which was rechecked and is in good shape. The dealer is not sure where the problem is, and recommended I replace the whole wiring harness a $3600 job or go through all the wiring (an 8-10 hour job). The car
occasionally has a shift hesitation, and occasionally does not start while warm, otherwise it drives OK. I'm in California and I can't register the vehicle without a smog certification, which will fail with this check engine light problem going on.
PLEASE HELP! What's going on here?my battery and brake lights have been on for a while, i thought my battery was dead so i bought a new one, didnt work, lights were still on, i then took it so they can get hook it to the computer to see what was wrong, turns out that the alternator was bad. got that replaced along with the alternator belt and power steering belt. the lights are still on. can you help me, is there a code to reset my sensors?The check engine lite is always on, this is sthe 3rd time in 4 months and it costs $80 to get it reset. The first time the oxygen sensor was bad and the car ran poorly. Second time no symptoms, just a bill. Third time no symtoms and I want to reset the lite myself. Can I??Hi,
I just started noticing a small vibration when accelerating through 2500rpm. It only happens exactly at 2500, not above or below. It feels like a small rough patch and makes a slightly higher pitched noise than just the normal engine sound. I recently had my exhaust looked at (for something else) and the guy told me I had a small exhaust leak. Other than that, the car runs great and have had very few problems. Is this something I should worry about?
ThanksI need to find the ecm on a 1994 nissan maxima. When it idles it dropped low and tries to die. The timing is off.First of all : great site !
1. Nissan V6 3.0 5 speed since a few days does not start immediately in the morning, feels like an old days carb flodding.With throttle full down it comes on like a John Deer, gas fumes (whiteish) from the exhaust smell like 3 gallons on a mile for a minute. Then the engine runs smooth again like new, no overheating, no cooling problems. It starts all day and night with a click. Next morning.....same problem. Any suggestions for a Dutch, more than satisfied Maxima pilot. ( WhataCar )The auto transmission is not shifting properly. The problem is most obvious when the cruise control is on and starting up a slight hill. The engine rpm (if I allow it) will sometimes go to redline before the transmission will downshift. I changed the fluid and the problem immediately was worse. The problem seems to be very much related to overdrive. I can manually turn off the overdrive as the engine rpm starts to rise and the transmission will downshift normally. If I turn the overdrive on and off during normal driving, I can make the transmission behave almost normally. Of course this gets aggrevating. With the cruise control off and while accelerating I can punch the accelerator to the floor and most of the time the transmission will down shift ok even with the overdrive turned on. The problem seems to get worse as the fluid heats up. Also I have noticed two or three times (with a warm transmission) that the problem seems to disappear for a short time. The car has 202, 000 miles on it so I don't really want to spend big bucks to fix the problem or rebuild the transmission. On the other hand, the rest of the car is sound. I use the car to commute to work and with todays gas prices, investing in this car will have some return. Assuming the rest of the car stays sound. Always risky investing in a 16 year old vehicle. Thanks!!How do I change the distributor on a 1993 Nissan Maxima?I just have installed a new fuel injector, new plugs and wires and my car was still running rough. I took it to a repair shop to have it looked at and now it seems to be my 2nd cylinder is not working. I checked the spark on the plug and it has a spark.
Do you have any suggestions other than tearing apart my engine and replacing the cylinder?I have a code 420 malfuction on right bank . Need to know what causes code to come up . All oxygen
sensors are ok . What repairs could be done .hose from water pump burst, changed now car wont start, chk'd 1)battery 2)starter 3)dist cap & plugs it appears engine may have gotten wet with coolant what may have gotten wet to prevent car from starting no problems before. What connection if any by the water pump would prevent car from starting. Car was towed home, also checked for anything loose, what about the throttle body by the passenger fender or the crank angle senor connections ?There is a security light on the dash that blinks whenever the key is removed from the ignition.It does this all the time .Will this cause the battery to be drained? How can I get this light to stop?Also, how can I make the voice reminder stop telling me the key is in the ignition everytime I open the door?My fan just want out. It's -10 in Minneapolis and I need heat in my car. When you hit the "auto" climate control you can hear the fan make a faint noies than nothing. Is this something I can fix or will I need to bring it in to the dealer? Any idea on the cost? ThanksStarts quickly idles rough, Control Module does not show any problem, must put in minimal drivability mode to drive, no indicator lights while driving.
Car runs fine until the first stop, and then upon acceleration the car does nothing. Still running but not moving, continuing to press the accelerator, you can smell gas (as in flooded) sitting for a few minutes without pressing the gas, the car will then run (fine??) until the next stop. Then the same problems.
I took it to a "hotrod" shop they said bad fuel injectors.
I took it to a shop in business 40 years for a 2nd opinion; they said "I don't know, can't figure it out"
I took it to Nissan, they said "BAD MOTOR" no other explanation . . . It is no longer starting!
Any help?Just wanted to say I think this website is a great resource. I've never bought parts off the internet and I was amazed at the money I could be saving!
I hear a clicking noise when I make sharp turns. I know it's the axle, and I'm planning on buying a new one because I'm going on a road trip across the country soon. Do you think I should replace both front axles at the same time?
I've changed my own oil, brakes, spark plugs, air filter, belts, stereo, and alternator. Are the axles something I can do myself, and if so, can you tell me how? Or should I go buy the Chilton's manual?
My 1998 Nissan Maxima has some engine surging between 2000-2400 rpm. It happens in second, and third gear. It stops surging after it hits about 2500 rpm. Do you know what it is? By surging, I mean the car will hit 2000 rpm, pause for a half sec hit 2200 rpm pause...etc etc
ThanksWhen I have to stop quickly, I notice a low hum and shuddering coming from the engine. This happens for 1 to 2 seconds as the car is quickly slowing to about 5 miles per hour. It stops at about the same time as the car stops moving. The engine seems to be straining at low rpm when this happens as if the automatic transmission is not downshifting/disengaging(?) right away. It only happens on quick stops. I had another '94 Maxima and never noticed this problem. Any ideas?Hi.
I have a 1994 nissan 3.0 DOHC.Problem is it cuts off, sometimes during an idle, sometimes while driving.It will not start back After it sets for awhile it will start back.Codes: 34, 98.These shouldn`t cause the problem.I suspect the crank trigger( pick-up), or the power module.Without a code I cant be sure.Anyway to tell for sure?
Thank you.the car just shut down without warning or vibrating.
the temperature was in the low 20's. what could be the problem?