Engine Toyota Car Answers
The front part of my car (or engine) shakes horribly after driving for at least 30 minutes to an hour at high speeds (70-75mph). It doesn't make a difference whether I am accelerating or braking. It does not do it around town at all. No one believes me but my kids who got scared one time while it was happening. My mechanic says it's not my: motor mounts, belts, or tires b/c I had all replaced. He says possibly: axles??? ($500) What do you think?Hi,
This is a neat service, I hope you can help me. 1989 Toyota Corolla starter needs replacement. I'm attempting to remvce the thing and haven't been sucessful. Have a Haynes manual it says there are mounting bolts for the starter housing but only shows one on the diagram. Really hard to get to. Removed the upper radiator hose and the starter moter and still cant find the other two fasteners.? What's the trick? Thankswhy is my motor stalling it gets worse until all it will do is idele roughtMy celica has 270, 000KMS it seems that after driving it it will leave a few drops of oil on the ground. I can leave it for a few days and theres only a couple drops, never a pool. The back of the engine is very grimy and dirty.The car idles fine, but when gas is applied it revs to maybe 2000 rpms but dies back down to about 1000 rpms and repeats the process over and over. I tried replaced the tps because when the tps is unplugged it revs high, but it is still doing the rev cycling with the new one installed. I frankly have no idea what else to do and can't afford to have a shop look at it during this time. ThanksI just had my car timed but now it seems slower, and difficult to get speed up, like my car is trying to pass gas and can't. Also the smell of the car when I start it up and especially turn it off, its fumes smell the inside and outside of the car. I checked the transmission fluid and its not burned. The oil seems to burn quickly, needing a quart every two weeks. Please help.How do I increase the idle? It is at 600 rpm with A/C engaged and runs rough. It has been in shop and everything is working OK. I think the idle needs to be at 800+.
MikeThe idle on this truck changes from a regular 800-1000 rpm idle to a 1600-1800 rpm idle every few seconds. Similar to what would be expected when the a/c cycles on, but this occurs almost all the time with the air both on and off. The only time I've noticed it might not happen is if the engine is very warm (after a hill climb or long run at high speed). Even then after a few minutes of normal idle the problem starts up again. No other problems with this engine, runs great otherwise.1999 XLE V-6. Mechanic says motor mounts are bad, a widely known problem, but not a recall issue. How can motor mounts be bad at 45, 000 miles? Am I being BS'd?Engine Vibration starting at about 1800 rpm when driving, and when parked with clutch disengaged (pushed in) or with clutch engaged and transmission in neutral. Suspected out of balance pressure plate assembly. Removed with engine flywheel and had balance checked by rebuilder, everything is in balance. Have replaced engine mounts, no change in vibration. Vehicle has 160, 000 miles. Clutch and pressure plate assembly are nearly new, replaced by previous owner I assume. Could there be a problem with the harmonic balance pulley assembly? Nothing appears out of whack with the Harmonic balance pulley. HELP!Could you tell me the procedure for replacing the timing belt and idler springs.
Ken22re engine. Just replaced head gasket, drove it for about 100 miles, everything worked fine. Then it began cutting out when accelerating. Runs fine when cold, then begins to fail after 5 or 10 minutes. If I hold down the pedal it will stumble, then go for 2 seconds, stumble, go for 2 seconds, over and over, then it may just take off and run for a little bit. If I shut it off, it will work OK for a few minutes, then start again. I replaced fuel filter, cap, rotor, injector o-rings, and adjusted valves. HELP!my 1991 4-runner now has 155, 525 miles on it and has been very well taken care of since new... recently began to experience a rough start with what i thought was an engine miss when driving... had a tune-up, plugs, distributor cap w/wires, injector flush etc.. rough idle problem was eliminated after tune up but the miss when driving at any speed still occurs and is intermittent.... mechanic thinks it may be a "power loss" and not a "miss" but is not sure where it is coming from, as all tested fine when he had the car... am not so sure that he is correct from the standpoint that no miss took place before tune-up was needed and i am inclined to think that it may be associated with either the fuel and/or air but am not certain... several months before tune-up, i had a new fuel filter and exhaust installed, along with some other unrelated maintenance items and a new ignition was installed a year or so ago... can you folks offer any suggestions for where to look, as this car has been very great up until this point and i'd like to have it running like it normally does? appreciate any thoughts!I have a 1993 pick up w/22re engine and I need to change.I can get a engine out of a 1989 4 wheel dri
ve 22rec. will it fit?
thanks timI have an 89 v6 3.0 4runner that has a new engine. Runs great but have noticed a small loss of power and it chuggs in gear when coasting sometimes. It did it with the old engine also. The exhasust from the cat back is in pretty bad shape. Has downey headers with the new crossover exhaust. Could it be a back pressure problem?when i get up to about 65 mph it cuts out and i drift back to 45, then up to 65 again, and back down. once it chugs a few times it seems to run ok. this up and down normally happens 2 or 3 times but has happened as many as 8 or 9 times in 20 miles. any ideas?Hoping you can help me with this one. This is with my wife's 93 Camry XLE V6. The car is experiencing a cold start problem similar to a bad choke if it had a carbeurator. It idles rough initially and usually dies unless you drive off right away. Initial acceleration for the first 5 or 10 mins until the engine comes up to operating temp. results in a chugging until speed increases to say 30MPH. After warmup, it is fine. I have checked the ECTS with the engine warm and cold and it is within spec. I took the IACV apart and cleaned it, although it did not appear to be that gunked up. I also cleaned the TB out. I checked the coolant level which was topped up ok. I also checked the cold start injector switch and the injector resistance. All appear within spec. I also pulled the EGR valve and cleaned it up a bit. I tried starting the engine up cold with the EGR vaccuum line disconnected/plugged. No change. The wires, rotor, and plugs are less than a year old on the car (140K miles). My latest attempt was replacement of the fuel filter (which I believe has never been replaced). No change. I intend to measure the fuel pressure at the injector rails shortly to make sure it's ok.
Can I check for anything else?
Also, is there a method to check for proper operation of the IACV like say plugging and unplugging its connector while the car is running to see if the engine responds or something?
ThanksThe car stumbles very badly under all but the slighest load at lower RPM's. It is a manual transmission, and I must rev the engine to approx. 2500 rpm, while letting the clutch slip and slowley engage, in order to take off from a dead stop. Once moving, the car "baugs" down with anything other than the slighest touch of the accelator, until it once again reaches a higher rpm. At higher RPM, I can fully depress the accelator with no, or only very mild hesitation. There is no abnormal smoke from the car.
I have removed and inspected the spark plugs. They appear very white and completly dry. I have also replaced the fuel filter, which did no good.
The problem seems to get worse as the engine comes up to temperature. The "check engine" light has not came on.
Thank you in advance for your suggestions.Took my truck in to a Test Only Smog shop & it failed! Report says it's a Gross Polluter, due to timing & EGR Valve. Any suggestions on what I can do to troubleshoot this without putting alot of money into it, but also get it to pass? I have set the timing & still have loss of power (truck lags). It also is getting horrible gas mileage. Has 200K miles on it. HELP?!?! I'm a girl!!Car chugs a little and then dies as you come to a stop. Will restart after longer than normal cranking but repeatedly dies when put in gear and you attempt to accelerate unless you race the engine a bit (it's an automatic but that's still possible).
Dennis Perryhow can i fix this?The car is a '95 Camry Lx wagon.
Yesterday morning the car started with no hesitation. I drove it several miles to a bookstore...I was in the store for about 20 minutes, when I tried to start the car the starter made the telltale clicking noise.
I was told that in a pinch if you tap on the starter while someone is trying to turn over the engine, you can actually get the engine goining. I am trying to avoid having to pay for towing.
If this works, I need to now where the starter is and what it looks like.
I was also told that I may not need a starter, but the sensors replaced?
BethI have an exhaust leak at the manifold, I'm not sure if its a crack or blown gasket. How does this effect performance and is it damaging to the motor? Should I have it fixed as soon as possible?I have a 1989 Camry wagon, V-6 with 177K miles. Could you please tell me the recommended interval for replacing the timing belt? Is there an elapsed time interval (i.e., every X years) that would come into force even if the mileage figure has not been reached?
Thank you for your service.
KJI have a '92 Tercel with about 178, 000 miles on it. The check engine light came on this past week and I checked it out by sticking a paperclip into the diagnostics box and pulled the code. It was 21, Oxygen Sensor. I recognized the code right away because I had seen this same code about two years ago.
My car used to spit blue smoke when I would take off from idling. I had the engine rebuilt two years ago and as a result, both the blue smoke and the check engine light went away. So it appears that whatever caused this to go away for two years and died or something.
Iím wondering if this is even worth it for me to fix. I think I remember the mechanic saying something about the O2 Sensor not being able to be removed because it was stuck or something. I could be totally wrong. Iím guessing my car has another year in it; maybe two years if Iím really lucky.
Is this going to cause enough problems that I should worry about it? Are there easy things that I can check to make sure something else isnít causing this? I can follow instructions very well but I donít know a lot of the lingo that is used here.
JasonCar has 169, 000 miles but drives smoothly, no smoking, no sputtering, acceleration is excellent. Car starts every morning at about 4:30 am and is driven a little over two miles, turned off for one hour and one half hours and starts with no problem.
Later, car is driven around town, motor is cut off, and frequently will not start for various periods of time anywhere from 15 minutes to two hours. It will then start.
PEBBOYS has replaced a battery terminal, battery, alternator and a starter. Problem persists.
H E L P !!!when it is cold out side below 50.once in awile it will start missing.the colder it gets the worse it gets.when it is above 50 it don't give me any problems.when it starts doing it, it's like the fist half of my throtle dosn't work push the throtle to the floor and it seams to run fine until it levels off at one rpm and then it starts to miss agin.this is what i have done so far .i put another coil, ic regulator, destributor, fuel pump, carb, and a timing chain and it still dose it.what else could it be.We Just Had To Repair The Car And Found That The EFI Relay Was Bad, So We Replaced The Relay And Now It Runs But Its Running Rough At Idle And There Is No Power. It Smells Strong Odor Of Gas And Black Color Exhaust Out Of The Tail Pipe. The Car Was Givin To Us Because The People Could Not Get It To Fire. Looks In Good Shape For A Free Car. ThanksHello. I have an automatic 1992 Corolla with 81K miles which recently needed a new alternator. After the alternator was replaced, the check engine light came on, and the car would not start properly. When the car is started, it needs to be revved in neutral to warm the engine. As it has become much colder outside, the car now stalls out when started multiple times until it can be warmed up for five minutes. Once the car is warmed up, it is fine. I had an engine diagnostic performed, and was told the throttle position sensor was the cause for my issue. Does this sound correct, or what else should I investigate?Hello, my name is Andrew. I have an engine that over heated twice, I refilled the radiator and it over heated again with white smoke coming out of the tail pipe. I asume a head gasket is shot. My question is; with the engine being Al, do you think the head or engine block warpped? is there any kind of head gasket that can be used that will compensate for a warpped head? What are your suggestions regarding how I should pursue working on this engine. Thank You.As I was entering the highway I accelerated, suddenly the camry shut off on me, I had plenty of gas, so that is not the problem, I tried to start the car on breakdown lane, the car turn on but as I tried to press gas the car would shut off and not even move an inch... I tried several times but still the car wouldn't turn on, I had to tow it home, the next day I tried and still the car wouldn't turn on, the following day the car doesn't even make an effort to turn on and now the battery suddenly has die...what can it possibly be? I really will appreciate it...engine may turn over sereral times before it starts, other times it fires right away. Occasionally it will not start no matter how long I let it turn over. Taking the key out then putting it back in helps when it won't fire after a reasonable amount of time. Also on more than one occasion after getting it started the truck has no power. It's like there's a huge parachute open behind me bogging me down.1. my corolla doesn't start when its cold, its just clicks and nothing
2. previously it would start after a few trys. on those occasions had to accelerate while turning the key because it would turn over and stop othewise.
3. starts fine when its been running a while
4. i can push start it,
5. cannot jump-lead start it,
6. had the started tested, its fine
any ideas would be very gratefully received
saleemI would like to know what can be done to remedy this overheating problem. The engine is a 7MGTE. Is there any way I could put another engine like a 22R or ???in its place and if so how much trouble would it be. I have been told that the Supra engine has had this problem for along time and I am trying to find a low cost FIX that will lastuntil the engine is warmed up there is a high pitch noise that seems to come from the valve on the passenger side of the engine so i reajusted the valve and check for loose bolt but apparently nothing seems loose. what could be the problem?My truck makes a chattering sound just when pulling off for a few seconds. I had the timming set but it still does it.It kinda sounds like a spark knock but only when pulling off. Its a 22r 4x4 1987.It is the EGR system.
Disconnecting the EGR makes the problem go away.
I tried a different round vacuum thing (maybe some kind of distribution thing) from a known good system; no change in problem. Checked the VSV, and solenoid seems to function properly, the (I think E, F, G connections) switched properly, and the OHMs resistance seemed within spec.
The EGR valve was replaced in '97; it seems to pass a test to see if it holds vacuum, and it does.
The EGR seems to engage when I accelerate past idle, and runs poorly until between 2k and 25k RPM.
I really want the thing to work ccorrectly, as not only do I want less emmissions, I get 14mpg when the EGR is connected, and 10.38 MPG when I disconnect the control hose.I have a "check engine" light in my 200 Toyota 4 runner. I took it to Auto Aone and they did a diognostic under the dash. The codes are;PO 304, PO171 (4cyl) and O2 sensor bank 1 lean. My question is my son is a front yard fairly decent mechanic. I have a Haynes book. Is the testing to determine which sensor is bad and is replacing the bad one an easy job? Should I take it to a mechanic?
I am a Grandma and don't really have the money for a big bill.
PS I don't know if this is exhaust???? Or what???