Engine Nissan Car Answers
Code 13- Cylinder head temperature sensor. The Haynes repair manual (Chapter 4, Fuel and exhaust system) states "sensor is located on the cylinder head near the thermostat housing". The illustration shows a 1988 model and refer to the timing belt removal and installation procedure. I removed the coolant reservoir, the A/C idler pulley and bracket, the timing belt upper cover..to find nothing. Question : Where is the CHTS located ?Engine vibrates and feels as if the car is about to stall whenever I am breaking at stoplight or parked. Used to happen only when hot and waiting at stoplight but now happens all the time.1. engine starts perfectly.
2. engine runs smoothly (no missing)
3. if temp is warm it runs for few seconds.
4. if temp is cold it runs for one minute.
5. use of accelerator will kill engine.
6. coolant level warning light stays on (level fine)
fuel pump is fine
fuel pressure regulator fine
fuel filter is newhose from water pump burst, changed now car wont start, chk'd 1)battery 2)starter 3)dist cap & plugs it appears engine may have gotten wet with coolant what may have gotten wet to prevent car from starting no problems before. What connection if any by the water pump would prevent car from starting. Car was towed home, also checked for anything loose, what about the throttle body by the passenger fender or the crank angle senor connections ?my engine makes a roar at about 1000 rpms. new w.p., tensioner, belt, still have the same noise before all installed.engine runs good just makes roaring noise more in park and neutral. 193000 milesI have a code 420 malfuction on right bank . Need to know what causes code to come up . All oxygen
sensors are ok . What repairs could be done .car starts missing at 2400 RPMS1998 Nissan Maxima GLE. After engine is warm, while driving at a high rate of speed (55mph+), I just began noticing a high-pitched noise coming from the engine that is directly correlated to the amount of pressure being applied to the accelerator. When accelerating, the noise gets louder. When you take your foot off the gas and coast, it goes away. This only happens when driving 55mph+ and after the engine is warm.
It almost sounds like a motor of some kind is running just in front of the steering wheel. The weirdest part is it will make a noise for a few minutes, and then stop, and then come back within about a minute. Very odd.
I took it to a guy here in town and he thought it was a wheel bearing. Nope, replaced the bearing and still making noise. He said he subscribes to this bulletin service and one he ran across that sounded like this problem was AT99-003. Don't know if that means anything to you. Another thing this guy mentioned was a clutch pack.
I would greatly appreciate your thoughts/comments on this. Thank you.IT DOESN'T HAPPEN OFTEN BUT IT'S HAPPENED AT THE WORST TIMES : EXPRESSWAY, INTERSECTION, ETC. I'VE TAKEN IT TO MECHANICS BUT, THEY CANNOT DUPLICATE THE STL, SO THEY DON'T HAVE MUCH OF A CLUE AS TO WHAT'S CAUSING THE PROBLEM. THEY'VE DIAGNOSED SEVER AREAS, BUT THE ENGINE RUNS TIP-TOP, EXCEPT FOR THIS RARE OCCURANCE, WHICH WILL RESTART WITH NO PROBLEM. IT MY SON'S TRANSPORTATION, BUT I WON'T LET HIM DRIVE WITH THIS PROBLEM.
PLEASE HELP ME!
JIM VAN PELT2000 Maxima, at full throttle the engine bogs like not enough fuel, or throttle position sensor not knowing it is at full throttle.Hi,
My 1998 Nissan Maxima has some engine surging between 2000-2400 rpm. It happens in second, and third gear. It stops surging after it hits about 2500 rpm. Do you know what it is? By surging, I mean the car will hit 2000 rpm, pause for a half sec hit 2200 rpm pause...etc etc
ThanksI was hoping someone could give me a suggestion as what to do for a 1995 Nissan Maxima Gle 6 cyl, 24 valve that seems to stall out.
I had changed the fuel filter, injector cleaner and air filter
It idles fine, starts fine but when it is in drive and the peddle is pressed it stalls out
Especially when on a hill where stress is on the engine.the engine seems to run fine till it gets hot enough to operate the fan, then it bogs down when I try to drive. It runs in idle, but the minute, I hit the accelerator it bogs down.
If I'm driving down the freeway its fine as the engine is cool, but if I 'm in traffic, and it gets hot enough for the fan to come on, then I'm stuck.
tks, julian!987 Nissan Stanza. Car starts fine but requires a lot of feathering to get it up to speed. If you mash the accelerator the car will sputter and miss. as you release the pedal, the car will start to smooth out. Once it starts firing on all cylinders it's fine, It'll run like a raped ape! It idles kind of rough...like it's searching for a proper idle speed.
It's been suggested that I need to replace the idle air control valve. I priced this part at $188! I don't want to spend that kind of money if it's not really the problem.
Andya couple of days ago i put antifreeze in my car because i drained it before and didn't want it to sit without anything in it so i put it in and afterwards i want to start it and it wouldn't start it just makes a clicking noise like it's shorting out somewhere everything else in the car still works. please help!Hi.
I have a 1994 nissan 3.0 DOHC.Problem is it cuts off, sometimes during an idle, sometimes while driving.It will not start back After it sets for awhile it will start back.Codes: 34, 98.These shouldn`t cause the problem.I suspect the crank trigger( pick-up), or the power module.Without a code I cant be sure.Anyway to tell for sure?
Thank you.I just have installed a new fuel injector, new plugs and wires and my car was still running rough. I took it to a repair shop to have it looked at and now it seems to be my 2nd cylinder is not working. I checked the spark on the plug and it has a spark.
Do you have any suggestions other than tearing apart my engine and replacing the cylinder?The following happens intermittently: After my Maxima is driven, then allowed to sit for awhile (without completely cooling), it
turns over but does not start. Or it may briefly start, then stalls (it acts as if it's either flooded or not getting gas or spark). The only way it eventually starts is by fully depressing the accellerator (white smoke is visible for awhile). Recently, the car stalled while driving with the same hard-starting symptoms.I just have installed a new fuel injector, new plugs and wires and my car was still running rough. I took it to a repair shop to have it looked at and now it seems to be my 2nd cylinder is not working. I checked the spark on the plug and it has a spark.
Do you have any suggestions other than tearing apart my engine and replacing the cylinder?the engine just dies while driving down the road. this morning it died cold after
i replaced the fuel filter, normally it dies warm while in motion then you have towait about 5 minutes brfore it will restart.I was wondering if I can swap the engine from a 1985 pickup and put in the 1995 pickup. Would there be a real mess doing it?
Thank youMy 2000 Sentra started running rough on the way to work just as I decellerated to get off interstate. Wierd thing is that the RPM Guage quit working for the remainder of the trip (about 15 miles. It continued to run rough and the cruise would not work at all. After the car sat for about an hour it started and ran fine, but the service engine light is on. Cruise works fine also. Bad crank sensor?How do I change the distributor on a 1993 Nissan Maxima?Hi,
I just started noticing a small vibration when accelerating through 2500rpm. It only happens exactly at 2500, not above or below. It feels like a small rough patch and makes a slightly higher pitched noise than just the normal engine sound. I recently had my exhaust looked at (for something else) and the guy told me I had a small exhaust leak. Other than that, the car runs great and have had very few problems. Is this something I should worry about?
Thanksthe "service engine now" light will not go out.was told the cat converter might be the fault.since the truck will never leave mexico, am thinking of removing the cat converter.will this be harmful to the engine?In this part of the world, a new converter is not an option.I need to find the ecm on a 1994 nissan maxima. When it idles it dropped low and tries to die. The timing is off.While driving home the other day, The motor started missing and would not run after 2000 rpm. It will start and idle but if you try to rev it, it will only go to 2000 rpm and start missing and will not accelerate any more. It is blowing quite a bit of black smoke from the exhaust. It has over 200000 miles and to to best of my knowledge the catilitic converter has never been changed. This problem happened all at once. Nothing prior. Fuel filter was changer about 10 months ago.
Any sugestions where to start?
Joe CooverCar was fine running fine and starting fine. The weather turned cold last night and now it won't start. Mechanic said it looked like a blown head gasket, asked if it was overheating. It WASN'T OVERHEATING. Could this be something else? Makes a funny noise when trying to start.4 cylinder engine made a loud noise and quit. Restarted and ran fine. What could of the noise been?cruise control will not stay on.Indicating light comes on when swith is turned on.I get an audible "click" when I set the speed but truck slows when I release the accellerator.Fuses are all good and all connections that I can see seem ok.My battery light comes on. Have brand new Sears SUV battery. Dealership says that my alternator is
"charging but charging low" I think they said it's at 11.
I replaced alternator via dealership Feb 1987, and Feb 2000. Then at gas station March 2001.(gas station has closed)
My van equipped with lift for my electric scooter.
What should I do? I'm 73 yr old woman and travel alone. Am willing to get another alternator because I'm afraid to breakdown on highway. Will that solve the problem?MIL is on. Dignostic Test indicated Mass Air Flow Sensor malfunction. I replaced it and the Igniter (used ones). But still hesitates a bit. I also like to know how to reset the MIL.
JK.Blew the Head gasket on my sentra and was pretty sure I stopped the motor before a complete cook. replaced the head gasket but now the valves are loud as hell. Adjusted the rockers but still noisy. Cam seems OK. Do the valve springs go soft under extreme heat? or are the valve stems just sticking in the guides?I have a 1988 Pular NX 16i. It will initially start and if I let it idol for a few minutes, then turn the engine off and try to start it, it won't start. If I waiting for 5 or 10 minutes the engine will start again. I replaced the fuel injector and ECU, but still has the problem. Is there a relay or sensor I need to replace?
Jeff"1990 B12 Sentra with the GA16i
(12-valve, TBI California) engine.
Suddenly would not rev above idle
(stalls if given throttle) and now
does not start at all (starter cranks OK).
I have already checked out the fuel pressure
(regulated to 40 psi at the TBI?)
Injector is clicking (only once when key is turned).
so signal is getting to injector ok.
I did replace the injector and O2 sensor anyway.
Plenty of spark, but still no evidence of gas
(plugs are always dry when pulled).
ECU has no codes (reads 5 red /5 green).
I have an MAS or ECU failure?
Seems like engine should at least start if
it is only the MAS...
Also, I tried cranking with the MAS disconnected
and STILL got 5/5 from the ECU.
Please help.I was sitting at a stop light waiting for the green arrow, once the light turned green, I tried to step on the gas and all of the sudden my car just turned off.
Now it won't start back up. Radio, lights etc all work fine. It sounds like it wants to start but will not turn over. Any thoughts?Hi,
My RPMs are fluctuating between 500 to 1000 almost every time the car is idling. The fluctuations become worse whenever I turn the air conditioner on and off. Sometimes, the engine almost stalls whenever I start it cold in the mornings. I recently had the car tuned up with all of the necessary components replaced (ie. spark plugs/wires, distributor, etc.) I'm not sure what else could be causing the rough idling. Is there another component to the engine that is often not examined that might be the problem? Is it an electrical problem or perhaps the battery itself?It's a 1989 wagon. I just bought the car. The car has 90, 000 miles on it and it's very clean. It starts chugging and trying to stall sometimes when idling or or between 40-60 mph. Once the chugging starts it idles rough. Right after I bought the car, the fan stopped turning on and it was trying to get hot so I replaced the thermostat. It turns out the thermostat was stuck shut and that problem stopped, but it still chuggs. I noticed it does chugg more when warm. I have been going crazy trying to stop the chugging, and while trying to narrow down the problem I have replaced the egr valve, pcv valve, distributor, ignition wires, plugs, air filter and fuel filter. I also cleaned the throttle body with throttle body cleaner and changed suspicious vacuum hoses. Between the chugging spells it seems to run smooth. It's an automatic and I noticed that when it's doing the chugging that the shifting is really delayed. I'm stumped.hi, a wire started smoking and burning under the
hood that has 4 different color wires and a little
black box on the end of that burnt.I made out
the numbers 50v on it.The car ran and started
a couple of times but not at all now.What type
of relay is it and is this the troubleshoot, thanks!Hello,
1. The alternator is acting as if it does not hold the charge, but the battery is staying charged we checked it. We will be replacing the alternator.
2. When we jumpstart the car it goes into an unbelievable accerleration as if we have our foot on the gas pedel, but we don't. We try to hit the gas pedel to make it de-accelerate but it won't. It seems like each time we jump start it, it gets worst.How do I change the belt on the water pump?My sons 1992 Stanza died this morning. 160K miles might point to the auto graveyard, but finances say keep it running. Our analysis points to a broken timing chain.
We have experience doing some auto repair, but I thought I'd check to see what I'm gettin into. The last timing work I did was replacing a belt on an early Honda Civic.
Here's the big question ... will I need to pull the engin to do the chain replace, or is there a trick to avoid this?
I know the chain and gaskets should cost about $100. How much should I expect to pay if I sent it to a shop?
Thanks for any help or advice. Looking forward to your email reply.
EdOur engine won't start on our altima. It will crank, but won't turn over. It does have spark, and it is getting fuel, but it still won't turn over. Battery is fully charged - ECM error code was reading speed sensor, but that shouldn't stop the engine from starting. Distributor is ok as well. Any ideas? Could it be the Camshaft position sensor?Hi, On my 97 Altima when transmission is switched to drive there is a sort of chest-like howling noise in the engine compartment. When car starting to move it lowers but when stopped and in gear it's quite audible. Also when turning on heater you can hear significant increase in the noise. Turning steering wheel fast left-right (stopped, in gear) lessens the noise. Thanks for you responceintermittently had the problem of not starting, but now it has been two weeks since it started last. seems like it floods out and holding the pedal to the floor is how it started again earlier. this time it seems to help. but it just wont start, it chugs occasionally but it won't keep goingHello,
Once my engine has been running for approx. 15-20 minutes, it begins to hesitate severly and sometimes won't start again if it gets shut down. The engine starts and runs smoothly when it's cold. I've heard a lot of good ideas like checking the MAF, coolant temperature sensor, injectors, EGR, etc. I am just wondering if there is a particular place on these Stanzas that would most likely be the culprit.