Engine Mazda Car Answers
Engine starts at 2500 Rpm's. After about a minute, it spits once then spits again every 5 seconds or so for about a dozen times, then quits spitting. Then within 5 minutes gradually slows down to 750/800 RPM's and runs perfect. I just got this car after it had sat up about 2 years, only started occassionly. Has 110k miles. Fuel injected, non-turbo. Can you please help? Jim.my engine its been over heating during the past month, i change the oil, i have no cooling leaks, the termostat was replace still no change, also the oil pressure is very low whem the car is not moving, this been going on after i replace my trannyWhile driving bumper to bumper traffic in AZ my car overheated, to the extreme. Radiator blew and I had to drive it longer then I should have to get off the freeway.
While doing this I drove it until it died. Replaced the radiator and check for water in the oil there was none.
Car runs good until it warms up then it runs very rough. Before overheating the car ran very good.
Tested the fuel injectors to see if the heat had damaged the O-rings they where fine.
Is the motor internaly damaged or is there other things I could test to see if the heat damaged any senors?
Thank you for any ideas you can give.Drain plug torque spec cast aluminum panRuns ok when car is cold, but check engine light comes on. Once car warms up, it idles erratically, sometimes dies, and if driven long enough, will eventually die and not start until it cools down again. It's not overheating. I've changed spark plugs and wires, air flow meter, fuel pump and filter, injectors, timing belt. The shop says error code is mass air flow meter, but I don't think they really know what they are doing.The car continues to stall when driving down the road or when stopped, usually when warm, but sometimes will not start when it's been parked for a short while either. Does not always start up again right away. REplaced distributor, fuel filter and a grounding strap? and still is stalling and then sometimes not starting. Occasionally it will hesitate and seems to be sputtering and will recover, only to stall shortly after some time. What could this be? It's driving me crazy!I have a 95 MX6( Automatic - 2.0L).The engine malfunction light comes on when i reach 3000 rpm on 3rd gear.So its like when ever i try to accelerate during a stop sign, and reach more than 3000 rpm(on 3rd gear), the engine malfuction light(the light with engine symbol) comes on. and when i get to 4th gear, the light goes off.Local transmission mechanic could not retrieve any codes from OBD sensor, asked me change o2 sensor.I see no difference in engine performance.guide me what do ?do you think autozone can fix the problem. Thanks in advance!We replaced the radiator and the engine is air locked . We replaced the theromsate .The truck still overheated . We thought maybe it was a faulty part so we got another one and the same thing . We thought we got the air locked fixed and then it overheated again . We put a water pump on and the top radiator hose collopased .We have tried everything and nothing seems to work .HELP ???????I have prestone running into the oil base. has blown the thermostat which I have replaced. How do I replace the head gasket myself?I think I may have some kind of leak in the exhaust. Sometimes when I start the car to warm it, when I come back to the car the car is full of smoke and the smoke is coming from the shifter. Also the muffler bangs very loud.i race my rx7 on dirt tracks. no engine or engine mgt. system modification has been done. (nonturbo)
the motor is a 1987 that has been put into a 1988 body. we are using the original computer for that motor. we are also using the wiring harness from the 1988 body on the 1987 motor.
we always have to pull start it. if we use the key it will flood.
once we have it running, it will not idle good below 2000rpm. over 2000rpm it seems to run good.
we have tried to tune it by changing the rotor angle but have had no luck.
i need wiring harness advice and timing advice. racing season starts 04-02-04. please help me.
rick r.2.3L, supercharged. Motor blew, replaced with "remanufactured" one. Runs great for a few minutes, then will not go over 2000 RPMs. Turn ignition off, restart, car runs fine for a few minutes, repeat. Have replaced sensors. It's been on 2 different Mazda dealerships computers and they can't find anything. Been without the car for 6 months.
BillBattery was changed, now engine won't register for emissions test with 180 miles after battery change.I have a 1986 Mazda RX7, I did a compression test and on the front plug area I only get a reading of 35 to 40psi on the rear plug area I have a reading of 75 to 80 psi, is this the sign of needing a rotor? Also the engine has 104, 000 miles on it.We have a 1991 Mazda 626 DX five speed. It leaks oil into the radiator.We checked the the head, head gasket and block for cracks. None were found and the head gasket was not blown. The engine did not skip. Compress checked good.
We had the head pressure checked at the machine shop. Head was not cracked. We had the head re-conditioned. Valves and valve guides were good but re-conditioned. We checked the block for cracks but none were found.
We put the engine back together and it leaks oil into the radiator a quart every fifty miles. Factory and local dealer no help.
We put Bars Leak block and head sealer in and it stopped the leak. We then drained and install the antifreeze and the leak came back.
Can you give us a fix? Thanks for your help.2.5L, V6 with 70K miles. Loud tapping noise on startup. Takes about 5 minutes of driving before goes away. I tried Marvel Mystery Oil before latest oil change, but no luck.Difficult starting cold. Must drag starter and jump off new battery to get it to start. Have had in shop and replaced water sensor, tps, checked ecu, and oxygen meter. It is putting too much fuel to the plugs, causing it flood. Once started and the engine is warm it will restart first try. It also passed the emission test required in Georgia. The car runs good and has power. As a last resort I took to the Mazda dealership and they said the compression was too Low and needed a new engine. Please help. Brad BarberHELLO MY MAZDA HAS A 4 CYLINDER ENGINE AND WHEN TRYING TO START IT TURNS OVER BUT DOES NOT START. I NOTICED THAT IT BACK FIRES TROUGH THE AIR FILTER BOX AND WHEN REMOVING THE FILTER IT BACKFIRES WITH A BLUE FLAME AND SEEMS LIKE ITS TRYING TO PICK UP.
SOME WORK WAS DONE BY A FRIEND EARLIER WHEN IT KNOCKED OUT A FREEZE PLUG AND I KNEW HE SO REMOVED THE TIMING BELT AND MAY HAVE MESSED UP THE TIMING. THE CAR IS NOW STUCK IN MY DRIVE WAY AND WANTED TO KNOW IF THERES AN EASY WAY ON RETIMING THE ENGINE WITH REGULAR TOOLS AND IF THERE IS HOW DO I DO IT.
THANKS FOR ANY HELP YOU CAN PROVIDE, DWAYNEI have found a very nice "87" 2.0 engine and would like to put it in my "88" B2200, which has a bad 2.2. Blown head gasket, smokes, low compression, and lifter knock. I have gotten varied opinions. The decrease in horsepower really doesn't concern me. Just want to get ole reliable back on the road. Any thoughts??I HAVE A 91 MAZDA 2600 I.THIS TRUCK WILL START IDLE VERY WELL BUT HAS NO POWER IT STLS WHEN PUT IN GEAR. EVEN IN PARK OR NUETR I CAN NOT GET THE RPMS OVER 2000 AND THATS TRICKY. THERE HAS BEEN A NEW GAS TANK FUEL PUMP FILTER PLUG WIRES CAP FUEL PUMP PRESURE WAS CHECKED .THIS TRUCK HAS BEEN TO SEVER SERVICE CENTERS NO ONE CAN HELP.IT RAN WELL UNTIL THIS THE TRUCK HAS 167000 BUT HAS BEEN MAINTAINED VERY WELL . SO ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT.ROOSTERCheck engine light stays onI saw in another question not to use the 2.6 motor mitsubishi built for chrysler. What is the difference and why is it a bad choice and I guess the main question would it even bolt up? What about the 2.6 they used in the D50 as that was a mitsubishi truck?I have a 2001 millenia s (2.3 miller cycle) with 60, 000 miles on it that hesitates from a dead stop for about 3 full seconds before taking off. It does not do this the first couple of times when the engine is cold and the idle is still high (first stop or two). If I let off the gas even at high speeds and then punch it, it also hesitates before taking off. I took it in to the mazda dealership and they told me it was the injectors. They flushed them thourghly as my wallet (charged me $400) and told me that if that didn't work I'd need new ones ($2800). I've always used premium gas and add the chevron additive techlotron stuff to the gas every so often to keep the injectors clean. Is there something I'm missing before I do a total injector change out? Please help...engine stalls and always restarts after a few minutes. no help. computer code is 543 batt to eca.
i have replaced the fuel pump and inertia switch no helpIm getting a 538 code. what is the cid code refering to? is it the crankshaft sensor. the truck runs fine but the check engin light came on.engine fine on level ground, always misses going uphill,
2.2.fuel injected engine. already put new fuel pump, all
tune up parts. Please, please helpHi,
Strange Problem, Intermittent. Mazda not Ford lookalike. 2.6L EFI. Truck drives fine and then all of a sudden it will start missing and backfire. No power and engine dies. When Trying to Start it it start fine but will not idle. or throttle up. It just starts and dies immediately. Eventually after several attempts If I floor it and manage to get it to rev over 3000 RPM it will be fine until it decides to act up again. Any Idea what's wrong. Crank position sensor? PCM?
isaacthe coolant is leaking at the rear of the engine when it gets warm( i cannot see exactly where bec. the view is blocked by the overhead intake).and also, i noticed the upper radiator hose is getting sucked flat and the cap is hard to remove bec. of the preasure.
i remove the thermostat housing to check on the thermostat and to my surprise, i don't see any thermostat in there. is that the cause of all this problem? is it possible the thermostat is located in other area rather than the upper rad. hose?
thanksAccording to my wife, she was hearing a clunking noise and continued to drive. When she was just idling the noise would slow down but continue. Evenually the noise went away and the card died on her. since then we can't get it started. The car engine still turns quickly but won't start. I checked to see if anything visible is broken belts or anything else but I don't seem to see anything.
Any ideas?Im getting a missfire code on#2cyl. when you go down the road it hesitates, bucks& backfires.This dosnt happen every time but its getting worse. Gave it a tune-up, had the injectors cleaned. Still does it! why? JeffI own an 89 Mazda B2600I 4X4. It runs great until it gets warm it feels like it starves for gas. I was told the fuel pump in the tank was bad and had 35psi when cold but then had 11-12 when in closed loop operation.
When I turn the key off for a few seconds and restart the engine it runs fine again for a few minutes and then goes to sputtering. Any ideas on what causes this?