Engine Honda Car Answers
I bought the car from an old lady. I overhauled it changed spark plugs, oil, distrubutor cap, fuel filter and oil filter. The car was running but now it won't start at all. I was told there is a computer on the floor on the passenger side with a red led and if the light don't light up when the ignition is turned that is the problem. Can you please assist.Hi... i have this problem sometimes.
I go to start the car and turn the key and the S3 light flashs. I try to start the engine, i hear starter and engine trying but it will not start.
If i leave the car alone for 5 or 10 mins, put the key in and try again... the s3 stays off and the car starts with no problem.
Lately it seems its been getting worst... now sometimes i have the same problem even when the s3 light is off.
Any Thoughts ?
Thanksmy 92 accord acts as though full choke is on while driving any speed at times. seems to get worse as you drive the car more and more. you can be sitting a red light and try to take off, but it just does not want to go. you have to floor it in order to get a response at times. i realize that it could be a variety of things, but was wondering if this was common in other hondas and if you know specific instances in which you discovered exactly what the problem was and the cure. thanks.yesterday, i was driving my 98 prelude at 40mph, the engine shut down suddenly, then i restart the engine, it works normally. so, can u tell me what's wrong with my car?1992 Accord suffers from the engine randomly stalling at highway speeds but the car always restarts. First stalling occurrence happens after 5 - 45 minutes but then every 5 -10 minutes afteward. Three garages have not found problem since the stalling never occurs while in their garage. Distributor has been replaced but stalling still occurs.Hi
Engine idles and runs fine apart from a flutter on pickop after a period of deceleration. The engine misses a beat or two after a deceleration.
I have changed the plugs and checked over the ignition components leads, distributer cap etc. all look in good condition.
I have also included injector cleaner with the fuel for a couple of weeks to no avail.
Can this be due to a momentary fuel starvation problem? If so what is the fix?Engine started idling very fast (2700rpm) and missing badly when driven and then "check engine" light came on - would then idle up and down 600-2500rpm pulsing - this car has an error code light and the message was a bad MAP sensor and bad EACV sensor. I removed and cleaned the EACV sensor and code went away, but code for MAP sensor still there after clearing the memory. I have checked for vacuum leaks, but all seems good there. Could either of these sensors being faulty cause these symtoms? Is there a way to clean/repair a MAP sensor (cost $250 :-( ??? NOTE: This did start after a heavy rain - but no water present in distrib cap. Also just replaced 1 month ago coil, ignition module, plugs, wires, radiator and air cleaner. THANKS, KIRBYThis is a prelude s model with carbs. Car has been tuned and sitting in neutral the car idles smooth as glass and is smooth until about 1400 rpm then a slight but very noticable vibration is felt thruout the car -- the doors and dash rattle slightly. The car vibrates like this when runing at driving speeds. Car has 140, 000 miles and uses about 1 qt oil every 800 miles and gets around 35 mpg. Is this normal vibration, motor mounts, bearings. What do you think? Many thanks for the help.The engine idles rough at idle. It has 149000 on it and it runs OK when driving with no problems with it. Dealer has tightened motor mounts but still rough.What do you think could be wrong.I bought my 1988 Honda Accord Lxi from a private party about 1 1/2 yrs ago. The car has in excess of 200k miles and I have found out since that it was not very well maintained. The car runs ok, but has started smoking considerably; at first this happened in the morning when I started it, and as it warmed up the smoking would stop. Now, the car continuously smokes when I start it up an/or drive it; I'M TKING VOLCANIC LIKE SMOKE! It just billows out as a white/beige flume that makes it impossible to drive down the driveway. I have a mechanic friend who services it, and he thinks it could be an oil leak into the combustion chamber causing a mix with the gasoline. The most recent service to the car was an oil change and engine flush; I added an oil additive (Marvel or something) and used Pennzoil 20w40 weight oil.
This is my last resort; any advice you can give about how to approach this matter is appreciated. This car is a candidate for donation if it's gonna cost me more than the cost to replace a PCV valve.
LarryThere is a steady knocking noise that does stop when "revving" the engine up. Lifters and timing belt have been replaced. After replacing timing belt, when first started the engine it didn't make the noise for about 30 seconds and then it started again.Replaced engine in car along with rear motor mount which is vaccum controled. When vehicle is in gear (all except park or nuetral) when the steering wheel is turned in either direction the engine idle races to about 2500 rpm and does not go back down until you shift back into park or nuetral. No check engine lights. Please help customer is wanting car.Engine runs very rough at idle in Park, vibrates worse in gear (automatic), and is worst in gear when A/C compressor engages. Rear fluid-type motor mount has been replaced-did not fix problem. Dealer advises they can't find problem and suggests I purchase a new Accord! Car is well maintained and has been tuned recently.I replaced the timing belt of my 1991 Honda Accord EX coupe with the 4 cyl motor again at 180, 000 miles. A couple of months later I noticed that the car was beginning to burn a little oil. It smoked badly at cold start. Now with 217, 000 miles, I am getting worried. It is burning about a quart every few hundred miles. Since I now live in another state, pretty far from my original repair guy, I am nervous about taking it to just anyone. Do you think that the camshaft seals or crankshaft seals could be defective? Would it be burning oil this bad if it were these seals? I have not noticed any oil leaking on my driveway or from under the car. All this began after the last timing belt change. The motor did seem to make a new whirr sound the day I picked it up but the mechanic reassured me that it was normal. Should I be worried that another problem now exist?Often, after half an hour of driving, and around half a tank of gas or less the car will start to loose power and jerk heavily. I solve it by getting off the highway and filling up! I had my mechanic look at it 3 times. He checked for water in fuel, he changed the distributor cap and wires after doing the wet down test. But, it happened again today.
Thanks for any advice.my accord will run fine, i'll run errands and it will get warm then not start. if i wait 10 minutes then it will start again. then the other day it died while i was driving it. i down shifted, popped the clutch, and it staarted again, i'm thinking it's the cat-converter. would there be any tell tail signs? or am i in the wrong neighborhood?, stevenA cylinder went out on our Honda a few months ago. We drove it for short distances before we had the engine head replaced along with exhaust and intake valves, thermostate, cap and dist roter button. When we got the car back, it is producing an enormous amount of smoke when turned on and continues when the car is driven. The repair shop said that the o-rings and pistons are now damaged and there was no way to tell this until the engine was put back together and the engine fired.
I need to know if this is true-that the head had to be replaced before the additional problem was detected. The car did not smoke at all before the head gasket was replaced. Now we cannot drive the car at all because of the polution and the smell.The auto Parts store says I Have a charging problem, as the battery goes dead after a day or so.The measured voltage on the battery goes from@ 12 volts to 14.1o volts when the car is running. I recently replaced the alternator with a used one. Doesnt the increase in voltage to the battery indicate the alternator is good.Hello there !! I have got a 2.2 Vti one with 40, 000 miles, manual and 4WS, I have installed Helix power tower, stage 1 G-box(from Nextlevel Performance), FSE fuel boost valve, Ecotek valve, performance back box(powerflow)....when we installed the power tower and started the car the rev was going up and down until the engine went warm but in about couple of days this problem went away and now the rev do go up and down but very slightly which can be ignored.....I have ordered an induction kit for it and was wondering after installing the induction kit will this rev up and down come back again and how do I fix it. I know this thing that the rev goes up and the ECU cuts it down and the cycle goes on until the choke goes off.......the same thing happened with me when I installed the rocker cover breather so I took it off. Your help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks and bye for now.Hi I have a 1993 Honda Prelude that has 173, 000 miles. The problem I'm having is when I start or drive the car, the rpm or engine will idle up and down from 2000-4500 rpms every so often. Is this a transmission problem? Another question I have is my ABS light and the BRAKE light indicatior on my dash board stays lit what does this mean? If you can answer my question it will be greatly appreicatied.why when the engine get hot enough for the fan to comes the fan will not comes onI recently purchased a 1993 Honda Accord for my teenage daughter for her first car. It has 119, 000 miles on it. I feel a vibration in the steering wheel when brake is applied and car comes to a complete stop. The car also idles rough when in reverse or A/C is on. Any suggestions on what might becausing this?
I took the car to a reputable mechanic and he suggested that the engine mounts may be worn, which is why I feel more vibration. I was thinking the idle may need adjusted, but I was told there is nothing to adjust, it's all electronic.
RoxaneI drive only a few miles a week. Last week, my '87 Accord (5-speed) began to stall while driving on the highway. At first, I thought the transmission was going bad because the car was jerking. I took the car to have a State Inspection and they changed the oil and checked the transmission oil. Returning home, as I drove more slowly around the city streets, the car shut off randomly and the battery and oil lights turned on. I pulled to the side of the road for a couple of minutes, then restarted the car and continued. By the time I got home, it was stalling every couple of blocks (probably about ten times total).I have a 1995 Honda Civic EX (with 96k), and it has been a great car. Last year, I had to replace the radiator, and ever since, the temp. gauge goes to just a little over 1/3 of the way up (does not fluctuate in either direction) when the engine is warm. With the original radiator, the temp. reading was barely over 1/4. I've been driving around with this hotter temp. for over a year, but I'm worried. Where should the needle be pointing on a normally functioning Civic EX?1991 EXR..I recently changed my valve cover gasket that had been leaking in the front for some time. That leak is completely fixed now, but there seems to be oil leaking from the top of the manifold gasket now. I am not sure if it would be oil that has leaked in there from previous and is just getting pushed out now, or if it is my head gasket. From my inspection i can't see any other oil leaking except on the front and it seems to high to be from my head gasket. Any ideas??...thanks ShaneMy honda accord 1999 with a 4 cyl vtec engine has motor oil getting into the water sytem. It's not transmissin fluid, it is motor oil. About 1/2 quart a week or 200 miles. What can be causing this problem?Just replaced plugs, wires, d-cap, rotor. When warm
the engine sounds and feels like its missing < 2000 rpms under acceleration. It idles fine and runs well aboue 2000 rpm. I don't notice this when the engine is cold. Help.
car has 265K miles ..what kind a job i need to do to keep engine not knocking and quite like brand new, it only have 67, 000mile on it now.A mechanic recommended the water pump on a 1998 Honda Civic because of the hot weather in Florida be replace at 90, 000 miles. Is correct or just looking for business?
Thank you.This is a test question from Admin.
MarkWhen I parked for at least five minutes and drive in low speed (>45mph), my engine turned off on me. However, the lights and radio were still on. I don't see any engine lights or other malfunction lights light up. I have changed the transmission three times, the transmission computer, the internal & ignition coil, gas filter, fuel pump relay, and four fuses. Still, the problem wasn't fixed. Also, I have checked if there any leak on the electrical wire that wire from the fuses, and don't see anything wrong. Do you know what's wrong with the vehicle?The engine temperature falls off to cold while driving. If the vehicle sits for a short period of time it comes back up and the air from the HVAC warms back up. Drive off & the engine temp (gauge) falls back to cold and the air from the system cools off to where it's ineffective at keeping the car warm in winter. Heat is fine when it's been warmed up sitting in the garage in the morning (15-20 minutes), but drive away and it cools right down. Fixable?Idles fine cold. Stalls when warm. idle drops below 100-800 rpmn chugs and dies. Cold idle is 1500rpmMy 1986 Prelude 2.0 SI overheats no matter what. It idles between 2000 and 3000 rpm. It has a brand new thermostat, radiator cap, and a nearly brand new water pump. Both radiator fan motors work, but they don't turn on when the car is running. I have yet to check the radiator fan motor switch, but could that cause my engine to idle so high? Might it be a cylinder head or gasket?Engine has power. It starts no problem. But have to rev it all the way just to get the car moving a little bit. Put the peddle to the floor and the engine revs at 6k to 7k RPMs. Car does not move. What could be causing this. At first I thought it might be the timing belt but now I think its the transmission.When the engine is cold it idles very high (2000 - 3000 rpm). Once it has warmed up, it sometimes idles fine but most of the time will idle very low or even stall. Help! What can a DIYer do here? What should I have a shop do?WHAT IS THE TIMING SETTING FOR A 1990 HONDA PRELUDE 2.0L 4WHEEL STEERINGok i have a 1989 honda prelude i just got it tuned up had new plugs, wires, and 2 fuel filters but yet when i let my car run or drive it it seems to die it gives a noise like its stalling or running out of gas could u please recommend something oh to add on i just had my car diag. and the report showed everything clean and normal but after that my fans stop comming on and the cars temp. shoots way up k thanks chrisI attempted a valve adjustment, working with a honda service manual. Now will not start. Has spark & can smell fuel. Where did I go wrong ??I have a 95 Honda Civic EX 1.6L, 144K mi. I was getting the car ready to sell. I pressure washed the engine while running. 1hr later the car died on the road. I removed & cleaned the distributor cap and she started right up. The next day I changed the cap & rotor on the distributor and drove her over 150mi, no propblems. The following day she died on the road again (both times it was as I was coming to a stop). I have not been able to get her started again. I have cleaned the cap & rotor and tried the old ones. I have verified spark with the spark plug on the valve cover. I removed the fuel rail & injectors and I do have consistent fuel from all injectors (not able to check if amount of fuel is correct, may be too much). Compression is ok. Timing belt, plugs and wires are new 1yr ago. I have visually checked the timing belt & timing, all ok. The engine won't even sputter when starting. I am thinking a sensor, but I do not get any code from the CPU. Help.my engine stalls seconds after starting, happens when i take short trips. and not always.engine has high idle. tried different throttle body (tpi sensor built into t.b.), still high. while in gear, hovers about 1500 rpm. sometimes stalls. worse in warm weather. maybe another bad tpi sensor?Hello,
I ve checked to see where the oil is droping from, it seams to come from the oil filter base is there a gasket there or does it need to be torqued down? This started after a cold snap.
JohnMy 1985 accord, it seems to start fine, when first started it smokes(white)qutie a lot. After driving it for approx. 20 minutes or so it starts to chug, (kinda like it is running out of fuel), I can pull over to the side of the road and let it sit for just a couple of minutes, sometimes less, I dont shut it off I just let it do its thing, it idles horribly, like something is clogged somewhere, then it just frees itself and starts to idle fine, I can then head back down the road for another 20+ minutes and then it is the same thing all over again. It dosen't overheat and there is oil in it, I have put heat gas dryer in it to make sure no water in fuel, I have been told maybe a bad head gasket or head, I have no ideas please help.Car looses power when going up a grade in 4ht and 5th gear. No problems when on flat roads.Changed the starter, distributor cap and rotor, put in new spark plugs. Start ok in the morning but when tried to start after work (park under sun-hot days) it will just cranked but not start right away. After waiting 20 or so minutes(after trying to start it first) it will start.A little history/hopefully helpful information. I recently changed the cv shaft on my civic dx. When I was putting the vehicle up on the jack stand..I didn't realize there was a wire hanging loose from one of the fog lights. The jack stand hit the wire and made a little spark. I pulled the spark plug covers off just out of curiosity and put them back on. I made sure they were on good. Next, the car was up for a week and a half. Now, I finished with the shafts, dropped the car and when I tried to crank it.. it would not crank. It's making almost the same noise it always did, minus the ka, ka varoom after 1-2 seconds like it always has. I have never had any problems with the car until now. I pretty sure that I checked all the fuses and they are good. Any idea what could be wrong?My speedodometer fluctuates while driving and sometimes does not work at all. Could the problem be my speedodometer cable, if so where is it located and how hard is it to fix?When accelerating with moderate to heavy pressure on accelerator when either cold or warm, it hesitates and won't exceed about 3, 000 rpms. When shifting to a higher gear, it immediately resumes normal operation. It is worse when climbing hills at higher elevations. Possible causes? O2 sensor or carburetor gasket?After my Honda warms up in stop and go driving, the idle gets higher and higher. It is not a problem on the highway, but in the city, at every red light, the idle is at about 3000 rpm and comes down very slowly. No such problem when engine is cold, idle is under 1000 at that point.I've a 95 Honda Accord, about 185, 000 miles. It idles rough, mostly when stopped, but runs well when in motion. It especially shakes and shimmies when I turn on the air. Changed the air filter, but the car does need some regular maintenance ... tune up, and so forth.
Took it to my regular mechanic and he thought it might be computer based. Is this possible? Or is this a regular problem seen on a Honda that's fixable with standard maintenance? I've an appointment and don't want to get sold $1, 000 worth of service I don't need.those flag menus where pretty vague...
here's the gist of the problem. my car begins to overheat after about 10-15 min driving and the temp sensor pegs out after about 15-20. if i drive for more than 15 minutes, when i go to shut off the engine, it'll sputter and keep trying to turn over (not impressive to the ladies at all). also, after the 10-15 minute mark, the car will idle @ about 3k-4k. any suggestions?Timing belt recently went out, changed the belt, the valves and compresion are ok. Timing way off, used a timing light; however, it will not idle even when it is in time, it is chugging and there is exhaust back pressure coming out of this hose that goes the air filter intake box. Question two, I want to install after market cold air' however, there is some sort of hose coming from the bottom of the car, can I bypass it in order to hook up the intake?....thanks