Engine Chev Car Answers
Always when the car is warm, it occasionly stalls. The engine light came on numerous times. However it has not lit lately. A few times when at idle, black smoke began until i reved the engine. I think it may be the oxygen sensor. The Z-24 has been great, and has 190, 000 miles, is a 6 cyl. with air. Any help would be appreciated.
P.S. a couple of times when i have started the car since this occurrence, the engine raced to 2000 RPM but returned right away.For the past week, when I drive my car about 15 miles, it just completely dies in the middle of the road. It will not start, when I have it towed and it gets to the service station they can start it. They replaced the fuel pump, thinking that was it, but it wasn't. Everyone is baffled. Do you have any idea what it could be?On my 396 big block I can't seem to get a for sure anserw for the timing mark alignment for the timing chain. Please help.cranks ok but won't start or starts for 1 second and sounds normal during that second but dies immediately. Was working normally...started doing this when I came out of the grocery store and now
that it is cold it still does the same thing. Seems
to have spark and seems to have gas coming into the
carb. Same symptoms if I spray starting fluid into
the carb.My daughter's 1996 Chevy S10 Blazer really shakes when in park, or stopped anywhere, but running, such as at a light, stop sign, etc. There is plenty of transmission fluid, RMP is between .5 and 1 (out of 6), and with the hood open, you can see the engine moving quite a bit (like it could shake itself out of there!). What might the problem be? Thanks!Okay, maybe all you chevy experts can get this one.
New wife's 6 cyl/auto corsica has this hesitation/stalling problem thruout rpm range. Always happens when throttle (gas pedal, NO CC) is stationary at whatever speed we are driving, and even a VERY minor movement pushing down or letting off the pedal solves the problem. Of course, when coasting to a stop, you can't rev the engine so it dies. At speed when it happens, if pedal is not moved within 15-20 sec's, the engine will die.
Repeatedly, this may go on for hours or only minutes, or only once. Temperature ranges from Baltimore blizzards to Yuma summers, and right after cold start to second tank of a cross country trek. The only constant is it seems to happen more often after left hand turns, in fact is almost guaranteed after turn in to our housing area.
Engine light is not total predictor of problem, as it comes and goes whether stalling or not.
EGR, plugs and wires, and the other normal things, plus a few other things have been replaced per various codes over the last 3 years at various shops on east coast, and problem returns almost immediately, with a different code.
I recently blew out the vapor canistor and return lines and have been leaving the fuel cap vented, and this seems to lessen the problem. I originally thought it might be a clogged in-tank fuel filter, but with additives and varying tank levels, there has been no change.
My thoughts now are the TPS, but I am a ford guy, and don't have that much experience with OBD.
Get Answers About Your Engine Chev My 1985 S-10 blazer will quit running every 14-21 days for no apparent reason; While driving, it will sputter and choke, then just quit running. The last time I let it sit for approx six hours and at that time it started once again, and ran just fine.
Checked the fuel pump is working. I've replaced the ignition modulator. Has engine with only 10, 000 miles; leads not a drop of oil; rebuilt carb. I found the first one had no protective silicon applied, so I thought that was the problem. I replaced the second one(quality dealer part) with silicon before installing and about three to four wks later the same result. Any ideas?I have change water pump, thermostat, headgasket, an Icannot keep it from over heating.I have had no problem with it until head gasket blew.know I can't keep it cool.heat tested thermostat it workes at 180.How do I fix it?MY PROBLEM IS WHEN THE CAR GETS TO OPERATING TEMP. IT STARTS TO SURGE & RUN ROUGH. WHEN THE MOTOR IS COLD IT SOUNDS & RUNS LIKE A NEW MOTOR. I'VE DONE JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING POSSIBLE AS FOR A TUNE-UP. I SO REPLACED BOTH COILS, DIS MODULE, INTAKE MANIFOLD & PLENUM GASKETS, CAT COVERTER & MUFFLER. I SO DISASSEMBLED THE FUEL RAIL & CLEANED THE FUEL INJECTORS. I'VE CHECKED FOR VACUUM LEAKS SO IT RUNS AROUND 22hg. I DID HAVE 3 ECM CODES BUT CORRECTED THEM ACCORDINGLY. ANY IDEA'S WHAT MAY BE WRONG. I FEEL IT MAY BE a FUEL PROBLEM. ANY SUGGESTION'S???????????after highway driving for about 20 min.'s, then stoping, engine stalls, it will restart but stalls as soon as you shift from park or neutral to drive. it stays running and idleing fine in park/neutral but will not stay running in drive. After some time (varies from a few min.'s to 1 hour) everything is fine.Only hesitats when accelerating under load. While setting still running at 550RPM sounds very good, runs fine. You can run the RPM up 2000 and down 550RPM sound good runs fine, but under load while driving back off the gas then push on gas and you have a loss of power and the engine stops. It will only restart if you push the gas to the floor.i need to know how much to tork my rocker arms toreplaced ignition module, distributor cap and rotor.truck ran fine for about three days.then truck would not start again.checked for fire and fuel.nothing happeningHi my cavalier turns over just fine. It is getting fuel and I think it is getting spark. I unplugged the injector because I thought I had flooded it and after doing so there was a backfire through the throttle body. So I'm assuming it has spark but does not attempt to start. Any information would be helpful. Is it a timing issue or coil pack? I dont know.I have a 454 engine that has a miss. The rpm gauge jumps up and down. I have replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor cap & rotor, did compression check, checked egr & pcv valve. The engine light does not come on. The engine just has a miss during idle and at cruising speed. It seems like it is an electrical problem but I don't know where to go from here?After rebuilding the engine on my 89 beretta, I was unsuccessfull at many attemts to start her. I had spun a rod a few years ago and was still driving around before parking in the back yard. Replaced many parts inclueding crankshaft, rings, one rod and new bearings. All went well until i tried to start and rediognous a new problem. First no fuel pump, then hot wire the oil presure sensor to activate pump.also tested with hot lead above driverside shock tower. All other wire were properly hooked up. All fuses were check and double checked.Inside and out but "no injector was releasing any fuel. There was also good fuel presure and spark from coils. Tested self-diognostic no change in any thing, still 12. ONly then started guessing maybe crankshaft or sensor, so replaced the sensor. Maybe computer. PLEASE HELP her run strong again. 2.8 1989. please tell me something I don't know. OR maybe proper vin number for crankshaft. I order by make model and year, but i dont know what else to do.Hi,
I have a 1996 chevrolet cavalier car and I am replaceing the engine with a 2002 cavalier engine. I would like to know what parts I have to replace to make it work.The Camaro chuggs/chokes at any given time but seems to do it more within a minute of start (not directly afterwards). It also happens mainly under high electrical or performance loads. I have changed oil and fuel/air filters. I am getting a new high output alternator (due to stock alt failure) but im wondering if the coil wire (like u said to the 1997) is to blame. I have had to change on coil before on the engine but i havent looked at them since. Any ideas?My fan clutch on my 4.3 V6started to sound like it was stuck on because the fan would rev up when you stepped on the gas. So i put a new fan clutch on today and it made no difference. I didn't start having problems until i put on the throttle body spacer. Someone told me that it might have something to do with low transmission fluid level so I stared checking the transmission fluid very frequently. Would the spacer have anything to do with or low fluid levels or what?Car engine dies when almost to a complete stop at trafic lights, stop signs... I have been told it can be the coolant temperature sensor. I bought a new one but cannot find where to replace on the car. Please help with any advice...
Joei have a 1972 chevelle with a 68 chevelle motor 396 (engine code 3935440) i just a friend redo the motor put in new edelbrock matching cam and manifold performer series, pete jackson gear drive, msd coil, 6al box and distributor, crane cams roller rockers gold series, dyno max headers and comp cam push rods plus a 750 cfm edelbrock carb . i bought from a hi-performance store all said to match up . now my problem is when driving and i hit it i move and fast but from a stop im not to impressed little wheel spin seems like no bottom end performance. i got a turbo 400 and 4.10 gears i believe i got the engine to move the car but somethings not right, everyone sas i should be halling from the stop pretty much burning rubber but im not, the curve in my msd distor. was set at 2800, do you think that has anything to do with it or is my timing just off, im not sure what my timing should be or my dell setting should be, can you please help me out going to slow in buffalo.
thanks any thing wrell help leo jr proud owner of a american classic 72 chevelle ss
0My 1994 Corsica has a new alternator, good battery and air cleaner. All test good. It runs fine at a steady speed, but misfires when accelerating. At the same time the Bat, ABS and Airbag lites come on. What might be causing this?I bought this vehicle last week. It is difficult to start. You have to depress the accelerator pedal and then it starts. There are no codes showing up.Problem intermittent, vehicle ran OK for father but has been parked for two years. First replaced dead battery and added five gallons of fresh gas and a good dose of methyl hydrate, after several attempts to start the engine started though a bit rough. I drove it around for a half hour or so then parked it, three hours or so later, engine turns over but doesn't fire up. I removed the air filter and adapter ring, and inserted a dry piece of paper under both injectors and the paper remained dry. I removed the fuel line at the throttle body and turned the engine over and observed clean fuel from the line. I then drained the tank, flushed the fuel-line and replaced the filter. The engine turned over though still refused to start I then tried starting fluid the engine fired over yet failed to start, further attempts showed that the engine would run as long as a constant flow of starting fluid was supplied and died when the flow was discontinued. I gave up and skipped a day and tried the day after with a quick squirt of starting fluid not really expecting results but the engine fired over right away and stayed running after a few revs, the engine ran smoothly for 20 minutes or so and I restarted several times successfully and again ten minutes later then twenty minutes after that. I broke off thinking all was well, but a few hours later, it was refusing to run again and now here I sit, perplexed and looking for help.Hi,
Mi brother decided to adjust the iddle mixture screws without knowing how to do it. The car does not start now. I know the right position for the mixture screws is 1 1/2 to 2 turns from where they set. I recently learned that the carburators need to be syncronize now. I know what kind of tool to use for that purpose, but I don't know what the right syncronization should be and how to read/use the syncronizer device. Can you Please Help me with this matter? Thank you so much for taking the time to do this.
3717 North Ravenswood Avenue Suite 234
Chicago, Illinois 60613
1998 Cavalier Engine Won't Start 2.2 l engine. Has spark, fuel, 175 psi comp. no trouble codes. will not start backfires through throttle body gas can be seen in the bottom of the intake. My question is: How can I verify it is not Ign. related I cannot find any real timing marks to verify TDC #1 cyl. It seems that I have to pull the timing cover to verify the trouble. If I had a bad crank or cam sensor I feel that I would not have any spark at all. Original problem car was started driven 50 ft. and just shut off. Replaced Plugs and fuel filter.I have a couple of questions..
I have a 88 4.3 TBI s-10 blazer
1- When I start the truck, it takes about 3-4 turns before it starts. I just gave it a tune-up and it still does it. What is the EGR and EAC and what do they do? Do they cause the rough idle my truck has.
What is that cylinder-like unit of the right side of the distributor cap. What kind of sensor is it.1995 camero, when you put the key in the car wont turn over, the battery is good, we checked the fuses and the relays we could get to, also the lights will work but the windows, radio and gauges dont have power and before this started the radio stayed on after the car was turned off, was this normal. We just bought the car a month ago for our daughter.originaly family purchased 1978 c-10 sht Bd only with a 250 6 20 yrs ago and now has a new 70 LT-1 rbld 350 4 Bbl T-350 Shift kit but need to know what needs to be done to make this smog legal for calif smog cert, s Dmv Sucks but all around frame up restore Help pleaseI really appreciate your site. I just had the thermostat, temp sensor and water pump fixed. I was still noticing smoke from the passenger side and when I (slowly) removed the cap from the coolant reservior the coolant gushed out. The coolant light comes on after about 5 minutes of driving and the temp needle goes all the way to HOT. I'm a female and feel that I have already been taken advantage of. So please help! Thanks.My 4.3L S-10 Blazer will hesitate and seem sluggish when driving in 100 dregree + abient temperatures. As I apply the accelerator the engine will gain revolutions and then drop them and come back up. My service engine light has been coming on at different times and then go off. the light does not coincide with the hesitation. A friend suggested the heat sensor, but the local Auto Zone does list a heat sensor for my blazer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. thanksMy 1998 Chevy Astrovan will not start. Starter is working. I shot starting fuild in the injectors, but fire. I have had new fuel pump. wires, plugs, cap and rotor put on. I have had to replace the cap and rotor 3 times in the last 7 months. the cap that lasted the longest was a GM part. I am about to go out and get another cap. The engine service soon light is on. that the van has run rough on and off prior to this till it warmed up. The last thing I have noticed is that I am getting terrible milage. The Van can't pass a gas station. Help me!!!!Can I clean a sticking throttle (valve) on my Chev 5.3 liter engine with 83, 000 miles. Dealer wants $150 to do it.My wife was driving it on the freeway, started losing power. It let out a huge cloud of black smoke, and died. Will not start. Electric fuel pump is working. Replaced tbi injector. No fuel comes out of the injector, will not even start when throttle body is primed manually with fuel. It does have a bad egr valve. Please help!!I need to know the step by step procedure for replacing the serpentine belt tensionerI took my Lumina LS to Precision Tune for general maintenace (spark plugs, oil change, PCV, radiator flush, transmission fluid change). They told me that my engine fluid was leaking into my coolant and it would cost over $600 to repair.(a faulty gasket in either the manifold or headgasket. We went on a 3500 mile road trip and the car began to overhead in the desert. We added a bottle of stop leak to the radiator and it never overheated again. Upon return, we took the car to the Texaco Xpress Lube for a new coolant change and the young man seemed quite knowlegable about the problem we experienced. He kindly would not change the coolant
because it should only have the pink fluid and should only be changed every 120, 000 miles. He said a better gasket is made than the original and that there is a current class action suit against GM. He said that this was common in 1996 Luminas with my engine (I think 3.1). Also, not having known about the 'pink' coolant, I'm not sure that that is what was put in.
How can I verify that this is the problem? Have you heard this to be common? Do you have any suggestions or comments for what I feel the Precision Tune guy thinks is the "dumb blonde"?
Hoping to be a 'smarter' blondeHi, when cold l can drive 80 mph for a long time, when l slow down on a traficc lifht it will die and only start after 4 minutes of waiting, it may go again for a long time and if stalls l have to wait 3 to 5 minutes to start again, replaced fuel filter, many sensors, check timing, etc. some say is a cold swicht stuck, some say is the fuel pump, other the injector, the problem is consistent, after driving for a half hour or more if stalls i will have to wait 3 to 5 minutes to start again, coil is cold, engine cylinder block was rebuilt.Car overheats within first 7 miles in morning from cold start. I took it for service and they replaced the thermostat. This appeared to fix the problem, but it reappeared the next day. Car has no heat from heater and the gage was pinned full temp. & overheat light was on. They have given up on fixing it.When my car is idling in park or just stopped at a light, it makes a sputtering or misfiring sound, and it vibrates the whole car. Also, my lights seem to go off for split seconds as this happens. I took it to get fixed, and the technician said it was the ignition cover. I had that fixed, and nothing changed--it's still happening and the check engine light is still on. Please help!In short she has an excellent body but 240k mile and is a 3/4 ton 2x4 with a 350cc 5.7 F/I in her so she is getting tired. Maintenace and repairs (and gas) will only nickel and dime me so i was considering upgrading to a vortec 5.7/6.0 Is this even an applicable option? If so what would be a good year engine to search for and if not what are my options? She doesn't smoke runs well on the freeway however tends to foul out plugs quickly and tends to miss a lot on acceleration and i doubt that i am running on all 8 cylinders.car idel rough when put in drive or park, 2.2 motor have replace, head gasket, ox sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, tps, fuel pump, map sensor, fuel filter, air charge sensor, ecm, have disconnected lead to trans did not make any change in the engine, ran compression check 175 to 165 in each cylender what else can i do thank youWe put new plugs and wires, cap, every thing is new in the distrbutor, put it back with #1 cyc at top dead center, and won't start, uless you turn the distrbutor all the way clock wise and it will stsrt but run rough till you trnu it all the way but the other way. check for any ecm codes and there is none.
could this be the timing gear is out or WHAT?When driving trying to accelerate engine has no get up. put accelerator pedal to floor no good ease off pedal all the way push lightly gradualy picks up speed please help thanks.My vehicle is miss firing. I also miss fires at very low speed. My mechanic thought it was the map sensor but its not he got a decoder for it and it says the problem code is P003. He changed the spark plugs, and clean the injectors. How can he fix that problem?7.4L TBI engine...new "tall radiator" from a '95...new engine, trans, exhaust system, computer...truck ran 245-250 on warm days...
GM couldn't fix...aftermarket computer chip cooled
it off some, 220-230 now; was told that factory
set-up included a delayed power enrichment mode, causing engine to run lean (exhaust manifolds glow
bright red, even in cold weather)...better now, but
still runs too hot.My access to updating has been closed prematurely.on replacing my engine we almost had everthing done but my grandfather noticed the injectors were not seeping there is no room and you cant see is there an easier way to get them to go in than having to pull the motor back out?it is the 3.4 sfi please help monicacar will not pass e-chech because of high n-oidle will run up and down. i replaced the spark plugs and that did not help. recently replaced manifold gaskets due to overheating.My engin started missing out and the check engin light blinks at the same time. I found if I take the fuse that covers the gages, warning lights check engin light and speed O out the miss go's away ?????? got any idea'sOverheats driving or idleing.Also when overheats it
has no heat. If let run will cool down and at the same time it starts to put out heat. When it overheats the engine, radiator and hoses seem to be
cool. The thermostat and cap have been replaced. I see no sign of coolant in the crancase or tail pipe.I have a 1992 chevrolet cavalier 2.2 liter. I have had a very recent problem. The vehicles life started with me at 55, 000 miles. I drove it for about two years as a commuter on the highway. Car now has 120, 000 miles. The car then was replaced and stored in a storage unit for about two years. The car never gave me a problem other then the lock up converter which was fixed. I also had to have head shaved and minor other fixits. I always started car every month or so as car was locked in a storage unit down the road. It always started and ran fine. Now as of last two months, the vehicle has sat at my parents house outside. Out of knowhere, the vehicle would not start. The vehicle is an automatic. The car as of a few days ago would not not idle. Car turns over and wants to start but won't hold an idle. My father sprayed ether in intake and car then would try harder to idle but continues to die. The weird thing is the accelerator pedal when pressed, would not work properly. It would only affect the idle when fully pressed to the floor at that peak point. So, when sprayed with ether, and if I repetedly pushed pedal to floor, car would idle but only if i kept pressing gas to floor repetedly. (flooding too much gas into motor)Otherwise car would die. I had a mechanic come over to try numerous tests on it. He plugged in his Tech 3 to it, and came up with absolutely no codes he said. He jumped fuel pump relay to verify pump and all that was functioning, and to make sure relay was working properly. Fuel pump works fine. He removed fuel rail also to check the fuel flow. Fuel all seems fine. He came up with at end of day that we needed to locate a new brain. Well I landed one today, and plugged it in. Car still did not idle but I somehow regained full use of the accelerator pedal working. So, I could then just hold pedal down and cause car to idle. Yet car would still die if I let off gas. Then after resetting ecu once again, the car ran and idled fine. I drove it a few miles from a cold start without warming it up first. I thought my problems were possibly over. Now tonight after dark I went out there, and car will idle and start up just fine. I can rev car with it in park but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse and barely touch the gas pedal, she dies. But only from a cold start. I then let car set there and idle in park for 15 minutes, jumped in, and drove her off once again for a mile without a problem. So now I'm stumped. The weather here is kinda humid and at night cool. Some rain here and there. The car did have a problem a few years ago with it not running in the rain, car would not idle. I unfortunitely do not remember what it was that was fixed though. Car has ran fine though like I said until now again. It doesn't seem like same problem. Thats where I am right now. I have two days for most part to get this fixed before i have to leave the state and head to chicago for a while. Any help would be greatful. Thanks in advance.Chevrolet 400 motor would run well only when timed at approx. 20 degreses BTC. for last month. Had new long block built. Same situation. Checked for TDC with pencil in #1 and found balancer and timing numeral plate seemed to line up perfect at 0. Does this indicate timing gear installed properly? Removed balancer and found it matched up correctly with new one in relation to mark and keyway. Placed back on, same problem. Had distrutor placed on machine at auto repair facility and it checked ok. Replaced distributor. Same problem. Checked routing of vacuum lines with Mitchell Manual. All appeared correct. (Backfires at 4 degree markand runs ROUGH). Still runs ok @20 degrees. Can't pass smog with this timing condition. Machine shop "re-clocked" distributor drive. Same condition. Maximum intake manifold vacuum is @ approx. 20 degrees BTC.My car has a 327 engine. It currently has 158, 000 miles. It overheats only in temperatures above 80 degrees after driving about 20 miles non-stop. It has a new radiator and is not leaking. When it gets hot, it kicks the water out of the overflow. It has a fairly new water pump and water seems to be circulating, but is circulating very slowing. There seems to be a lot of movement in the engine pulley system when putting the car in gear and is making a rattling noise. Any ideas what could be causing this?My wife's'93 cav, 2.8 liter, will drive like crazy on the freeway... 80 mph, no prob. When she pulls onto surface streets, and starts hitting lights, it will shake like a bad amusement ride, and stall. I have not noticed any rotten egg or sulpher smell, it appears to be getting gas and spark (80 mph. When I drove it, and came to a stop in gear (Auto) it would shake badly, so I put it in neutral, and the shaking stopped. I have replaced the sparkplugs, but I am guessing that there is no distributor? Or is it hidden back against the firewall. I have read some of the other posts regarding similar conditions, so maybe it's the crank trigger that's bad?Egine idling fast 95% of the time.After rebuilding the engine on the 1989 2.8 V6. I ran in to trouble. I replaced the ECM and the ignition control module. STILL NO PULSE FROM THE ECM TO GROUND THE INJECTORS. Finished today tapping into wires to check volts and grounds. Ecm main ground is good, all hi and low volts are correct from ignition module to ECM, Just NO PULSE FROM ECM TO INJECTORS. FUEL pressure is good and the injectors all have correct volt. WHAT CAN BE WRONG WITH THIS SYSTEM, ARE THE INJECTORS L JUST BAD. BECAUSE I'M NOT HEARING NO CLICKING AT L. JUST NO GROUND FROM ECM.My car over heats all the time .. I changed the radiator cap, thermostat, hoses, fan switch near the thermostat. It seems to boil the water and in goes into the overflow and then it won't come back into the radiator. No water is visable on the ground or white smoke coming from tail pipe. I'm at a losss as to what to try next. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you ... Al KennedyI have a 2.8liter 3-speed transmission I recently had the flex plate of tranny replaced.After the fix
the car started just fine(with a very high idle), but engine oil started leaking badly(from bottom of engine) after warm-up.Plus it did not want to start when it rained.
Did the trannsmission place mess up?
Is it worth fixxing?The vacume line that comes off the bottom of the distributer is broken off 5 inches from the distributer. I can't seem to locate the other end. Where does it run from the distributer to ?????The car has been functioning fine until this problem.
Daughter got in the car after work. Started fine, drove fine, until she was half-way up the hill to our home. Half-way point, engine totally lost power, and now idles extremely rough. It's almost like its not firing on all cylinders, or the engine is being straved for something. Just listening to the engine and exhaust, its like its just having difficulty staying running. I don't see anything visual, hoses, wiring, etc - that would indicate a problem. My intentions is to check for fouled plug, and to change the fuel filter for starters. I was wondering if there is a sensor, that could cause such drastic change in performance. There is a check engine light on, but have not checked the code yet. The vehicle is the z24, 2.4L, dohc, manual.
no mods to the engine or anything. (75, 000 miles)
Recent work about 3500 miles ago, new water pump.
Probably about 200 miles on current gas. If I try and drive, the engine will not allow, seems it just won't go up to around 30 mph only. Thank you for your time.I have a 1988 chevy celebrity 2.8L.
When i first bought car 1 month ago it needed a battery, starter and alternator, then was on highway and all power was sucked out of battry I bought another battery cuz told warranty not covered.
Anyways found a short in glove box and before trunk lid, engine hood lite and interior lite and stereo did not work and once found the all was restored.
When test driven after finding the short it stalled and has never started since.
There is no spark but there is fuel for sure!!
BEEN TOLD WHEN BATTERY DRAINED COMPLETELY THE COMPUTER "FORGET" HOW TO FIRE!!!
IS THERE ANY TRUTH TO THIS?? WHERE DO I START TESTING OR WHERE DO I START ???Have a Camaro RS 305 TBI.
When the engine is is cold it, idles fine but studders and hesitates when accelerating normally. Even the smallest uphill is a problem. Pressing down accelerator very much it accelerates alot.
When engine has run (normally)warm for a while. Turned off and left off for 15-30 minutes it starts imideatly but stalls and is very hard to get starting again. It does start, and needs to be revved to 2000-3000 rpm for a few second before running smoothly again.
Been told this could be a EGR problem = costly. Any ideas?
Regards SvenHello I am having trouble when I first start the car and start driving. When accelerating it will cough and hesitate and sometimes stall. If it is really bad it will even cough in park and stall but most of the time when accelerating. It only does it when cold after it warms up it never skips a beat. I took it to a small town shop and they checked engine codes and found none they put a pressure gauge into the fuel rail and said pressure was good while it was coughing. I asked at another shop and they thought it was in the ignition system so changed both coils, plug wires and spark plugs. It seemed to help a little but still coughs sometimes but only for a few seconds and it is good again. Any help would be great. Thank you for your time.Rune fine at 550 RPM Hesitation when accelerating
at about 35 MPH. Have check all sensers, fuel pruser.
This engine is in a 31 Victoria Ford used original wireing harnes and origineal brain.
1992 K1500 Engine Won't Start Usually after idling the truck will quit, and will not restart. Nothing I have found will start the engine, have manually put fuel in the carburetor and tried to start it, disconnected the injectors and floored the accelerator, nothing will start the truck but leave it sit for a couple hours and give it a try and the truck will start like nothing ever happened. Took the truck to the chev garge and they could not get it to repeat and thought it might be fuel related, this is why I had tried the fuel thing.I have a 94 chevy cavalier with 186, 000 miles on it. It always starts fine and runs fine. I've been driving it for a about a year with the torque converter unplugged -- to fix the problem I had with stalling while coming to a stop. Now have a new problem, just started a few weeks ago. During deceleration from normal driving speeds, when the engine starts to slow down, it sounds like it is shutting off and a few seconds later starts back up again. So far it hasn't caused any problems, the car still runs fine and doesn't actually stall, but it seems rather unusual and I'm wondering if this is going to lead to something worse. Also, during stop and go driving, during deceleration, sometimes the car will shake a bit. Any ideas?3.1 V-6 Auto
Engine starts fine when cold but idles @ 2000-3000 RPM. Will not "kick-down" at all. Have to shut off and restart when engine begins to warm up to bring idle down to normal. Runs fine when warm.My 3.1L Engine shuts down after running @ 50 to 60 MPH for 10 to 15 minutes. Engine will then restart almost immediately, but would run on only two cyls. Continuous running in this condition eventually clears the problem for a short time.When I turn on the car, the engine chugs like it is going to stall out. It has never actually stalled. Also, when i'm driving at lower speeds, it seems to sputter some times, like its out of gas. It only started doing this after my radiator hose burst. I patched it up for a couple days before I could get it fixed. After it was fixed, it started doing this. After driving for longer periods of time, it gets better, until I have to stop...then it continues again. Ive changed the fuel filter, and air filter, and it seemed to run a little better afterwards.
Also, ive noticed that the cooling fan doesnt seem to come on. ive been told that its probably the fuel pump, but i dont know much about cars and dont want to have things fixed and still have problems. please help.Always shudders and then stalls once after 10 blocks if car has sat for more than eight hours. Giving a little gas when it starts to stall might keep it running but will be very sluggish. A few minutes later the car will run fine the rest of the day. Sometimes it is slightly sluggish while accelerating. Replaced spark plug wires, crank sensor, and ignition coils. Ran great for 700 miles and then started symptoms again. Pep Boys and Chevorlet dealership cannot find anything on its diagnostic tests. Something strange, my cigarette lighter keeps blowing a fuse after it stalls and doesn't share with anything eles. Pardon my ignorance. I'm sure its pure coincidence.