Chev S 10 Blazer Car Answers
My 4.3L S-10 Blazer will hesitate and seem sluggish when driving in 100 dregree + abient temperatures. As I apply the accelerator the engine will gain revolutions and then drop them and come back up. My service engine light has been coming on at different times and then go off. the light does not coincide with the hesitation. A friend suggested the heat sensor, but the local Auto Zone does list a heat sensor for my blazer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. thanksThe vacume line that comes off the bottom of the distributer is broken off 5 inches from the distributer. I can't seem to locate the other end. Where does it run from the distributer to ?????My fan clutch on my 4.3 V6started to sound like it was stuck on because the fan would rev up when you stepped on the gas. So i put a new fan clutch on today and it made no difference. I didn't start having problems until i put on the throttle body spacer. Someone told me that it might have something to do with low transmission fluid level so I stared checking the transmission fluid very frequently. Would the spacer have anything to do with or low fluid levels or what?show me how the vaccum hoses are hooked up on the transfer case to the engine so that my 4 wheel drive engages and disengages.i also need a diagram of how all the vaccum hoses in the engine compartment are hooked up.My daughter's 1996 Chevy S10 Blazer really shakes when in park, or stopped anywhere, but running, such as at a light, stop sign, etc. There is plenty of transmission fluid, RMP is between .5 and 1 (out of 6), and with the hood open, you can see the engine moving quite a bit (like it could shake itself out of there!). What might the problem be? Thanks!I have a six cylinder S-10 Blazer, 4.3L, 2WD. The transmission does fine all day around town, no problems at all. When you take a trip that is about three hours or more the transmission has a problem shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. When you stop and take off, 1st to 2nd does fine. 2nd to 3rd acts as if it is hung and then it jerks the vechile, "pops" loose and goes in to third. Once the vechile have been parked and cooled off everything works fine. I'm trying to determine if I should replace the solenoids in the lower part or the transmission or if the whole transmission needs replacing? Any thoughts?When turning the key the motor turns over and it sounds like it is either flooded or out of gas. I have found that by getting under the rear bumper and merely touching "flicking" two wires that I believe are going to the fuel pump that the vehicle will then start immediately the next time I turn the key. One mechanic has told me that when this happens to leave the key in the "on" position and try to listen to see if I can hear the fuel pump start when I touch the wires. I have tried to listen for the sound of the pump but so far have not heard any difference or pump running after I tug on the wires. There are three wires which appeared to be locked or clamped to a connector by the gas tank, but a third wire is not connected. When I recently took my vehicle in for an unrelated issue I asked them to look at the fuel pump and they said they could not see anything unusual. I do not know if there is a short or some other electrical issue - however on occasion when I engage my turn signal my wipers will start. This is frustrating because sometimes it will go for weeks without failing to start and then sometimes such as today, it happened twice. Other than this issue the vehicle has been well maintained and only has 137, 000 miles.My 1985 S-10 blazer will quit running every 14-21 days for no apparent reason; While driving, it will sputter and choke, then just quit running. The last time I let it sit for approx six hours and at that time it started once again, and ran just fine.
Checked the fuel pump is working. I've replaced the ignition modulator. Has engine with only 10, 000 miles; leads not a drop of oil; rebuilt carb. I found the first one had no protective silicon applied, so I thought that was the problem. I replaced the second one(quality dealer part) with silicon before installing and about three to four wks later the same result. Any ideas?The vehicle has a vibration which is noticed at 58mph and higher. I have had the vehicle checked by the dealership with no luck in repairing the vehicle.
So far we have replaced the rear bushing and seal in the transmission, replaced with two drive shafts (out of totaled vehicles) new u-joints, two new sets of tires, rotors turned, front alignment, replaced differential with one out of totaled vehicle. Now the dealer wants to pull the rotors and states they might be out of ballance....I give up...Cost so far is $1, 800.00 in trying to get the vibration out. It's really bad at 65mph and feels like its at my feet and traveling to the rear of the vehicle. Please help.when driving aconstant squeak when i apply the brake very slightly it stops a new rear u joint was installed 1 year ago so i put grease in it did not stop ft ujoint looks and fells ok when i put it in the air it sounds like its in trans but i cant tell because the sound travels the squeak is in rotation to the shaft?I have had my Blazer for about 2 years and it has always made a noise in 4 wheel drive. This only occurs in 4 wheel drive. It has never been a problem. Lately, when I put it back in 2 wheel drive the light that indicates that the front differential is still engaged does not go out and I can still hear the noise but not as loud. That tells me that maybe the 4 wheel drive is not disengaging completely. The rear tires are the only ones turning, as should be. I have adjusted the shift linkage for the 4 wheel drive and it is all working properly. It shifts smoothly from 4 to 2 wheel drive so I assume the transfer case is working fine also. I also checked the wiring on the shift lever that controls the lights and they are fine. The wierd thing, at least to me, is that if I let it sit for a couple of hours and then restart it the light is off and it is back in 2 wheel drive. Is there any electrical or vacuum mechanism that could cause this? I am lost. I would appreciate any help. Thanks.I have a 96 s10 blazer 4x4 4.3 liter, Automatic. She is my baby with 175000 miles and I do not want to get rid of it. Initially it would stall after 5-10 minutes of run time and would have no power under load. (in gear pushing gas pedal to floor. I replaced fuel filter and the stalling problem has been corrected. However it still loses power when driving. I can slowly increase speed to around 55-60, when i depress the gas it "flutters" until i let up on the gas and it will go back to slow acceleration. New fuel pump professionally intalled 6 months ago. Trans has good level and the engine will rev up in park no problem. HELP!!!I installed new ball joints (upper and lower), a new idler arm, and new shocks. Now the car "pitches and rolls" when it hits a bump in the road.My 2001 S-10 Blazer has electronic 4WD switch mounted on dashboard. When I push 4Hi, it may or may not engage. It sometimes engages but will not disengage. I have returned to Dealer 3 times and they say they can't find anything wrong. When I push button, I can hear clicking noise in right side of dash, but no engagement. 4Hi button will flash a few times and then return to 2WD.my blazer does not go into 4WD. The light goes on my it does not engage.When I have less than 1/4 of a tank of gas and have parked on a front-down incline the car won't start.(turns over but won't start) You also CANNOT hear the fuel pump run and pressurize the system. If you level out the vehicle for a several seconds the pump again runs and vehicle starts. I don't notice any other problems with the engine ops. Thanks.Hi, I have a 1990 S10 Blazer. It was driving fine, then after shutting if off for about 5 minutes to run inside the house and starting it up again, it would barely move forward or backwards. It seems to have no power. It does move when the engine reaches higher RPM's (sorry no tachometer to give an actual reading). Also, I heard it shift from first to second after reaching a speed of about 5-8 mph. Upon shifting, it continued with no power and high RPM's.
Any thought on what this might be (possible a broken torque converter or etc?) I'm about ready to pull the trans. out, but is there anything you recommend checking first? Am I correct in thinking that the transmission itself may be ok since it shifts?
Thanks. By the way, the transmission was just rebuilt about 20, 000 miles ago.The tailgate opening "Switch" on the tailgate lock has been broken and spins freely. I need to know how to get the tailgate open so that I can replace the lock switch. Please help me!!! Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!
ToddI have a couple of questions..
I have a 88 4.3 TBI s-10 blazer
1- When I start the truck, it takes about 3-4 turns before it starts. I just gave it a tune-up and it still does it. What is the EGR and EAC and what do they do? Do they cause the rough idle my truck has.
What is that cylinder-like unit of the right side of the distributor cap. What kind of sensor is it.My S-10 blazer 4.3 seems to go into a vapor lock situation after it is warmed up. The fuel pressure drops off after it gets hot, only when the outside temp is over 80. I have replaced the fuel pump twice, the pulsator valve on the sending unit, the fuel filter, and the CFI (central fuel injection unit) and it still stalls and is hard to start when hot. it runs fine when the outside temp is cooler.Also specs call for 54-64psi, and after i replaced all the parts mentioned above, when i tested the fuel psi, (engine stone cold), the reading was 53 psi.It will run fine at that psi but when it gets hot the psi starts dropping off untill it reaches about 45 psi then it will stall out.
ANY help would be appreaciated